Repair or exchange recently purchased 89-90 MIJ Strat?

[Chordial]

Hi, all. I'm a newbie on several fronts: new to the forum, new to electrics and new to Strats!

I need your advice on how to handle some issues I'm having with my recently purchased (in Japan, where I live) used 89-90 MIJ Strat. I'll put the problem first, Strat info second and a little about me last.

The problem: After the first week of play, the cable socket failed to hold the lead cable. While fixing the cable jack, the shop discovered a problem with the bottom tone control and did a repair on that, too.

Post-repair, I noticed a distorted sound when strumming under clean settings that I did not notice during pre-purchase testing or during the initial week of home play. If the bottom tone control is turned past 3 it gets progressively worse. This tone control also effects all 5 pickup select positions. Last night, the middle pickup position was cutting out (little or no volume on that setting, but with the other 4 positions getting normal volume).

My guess is that the repair tech fudged the wiring job and/or some of the other components are bad. But, like I said, I wasn't having these issues pre-repair.

A side issue is that the guitar goes out of tune pretty easily--particulary the bass E string. It did not seem so as compared to others I tried when testing, but I wonder if this is normal for an electric as compared to my acoustic, which, while cheap, holds tuning pretty well.

My main question to everyone is: should I seek a guitar exchange or have them repair the current Strat? I have just under five months left on the 6-month shop warranty.

Info on the Strat: (see pic)
89-90 (J series) Fender Japan Strat
(metallic gold body, basic white pickguard)
Model: (sold as) ST54LS Fifties re-issue (may actually be a ST57-53, as a card showing that was included with a dog-eared manual in the guitar bag)
Maple-neck, 21-fret, 5-way select
set of 3 Fender Lace Gold Sensor pickups.
Price: $490
Condition: Shop mgr said about 70% fret life left.
A couple of very minor, tiny indentations in the headstock from bumping and
a small bump blemish on the side of the body, that cracked the lacquer a bit, but did not make an indentation and still feels smooth to the touch.

About me:
I'm an intermediate-level learner (not ready for live performance) and this is my first electric. I know the basics of Strat/electric anatomy, but have no hands-on experience with the tech side of things or amps yet. I practice using a Vox AC amPlug headphone amp and a TASCAM GT-R1 Guitar Trainer. I do not have a full amp.

I am completely self-taught and do not have other players on hand to ask yet. I live in Japan and bought the guitar here.

Thanks in advance for your help on this. I will be happy to post more details if needed. Friday, I plan to go to the shop and test out the guitar on some amps, comparing it against others in the store.

Assuming they give me the option of trading, I could probably get a new Japanese Standard Fender Strat for roughly an even trade. I'd lose the Lace Sensors that way, though.

Alrighty, I'll leave it there. Thanks!

All the best,

Chordial

[Mike S.]

You have an excellent platform to work with, the MIJ Fenders are highly desired for good reason. No one can make a 100% spot on assessment of the guitar's issues sight unseen, however the problems you are describing are relatively easy fixes given the info provided.

I'd suggest finding a qualified tech, as it sounds as though the one you are using now leaves a lot to be desired.

[mutato]

I'd agree with keeping it. I owned an '86 MIJ Strat and it was very nicely built. However, the electronics were a little cheaper than the US. My 5 way switch went bad about 5 months into owning it and was replaced with a proper US one under the warranty.

Have the take another look under the hood for any loose solder joints, bad/scratchy pots etc... Also, they can relook at the setup. The nut needs some graphite (I use a pencil!) and that could quickly solve your low E tuning problem. Also put some on the bridge saddles and bridge area where the strings contact the bridge.

These are easy fixes and the overall guitar is a great one!

[Chordial]

Thank you very much for the feedback guys! I appreciate it and will-do on the advice given. I think you're right on the soldering--and I'm guessing he did something funky on his tone control wire-to-selector decision-making as well. This is quite surprising, as one would normally expect to receive great service in Japan in such a situation.

I use the pencil graphite trick on my acoustic nut to good effect, but have not used it on the electric yet, as it is still on its first set of strings. Before purchase, it had 9's and upon purchase, I had them replace them with 10's and do a setup (-Am thinking of going with 11's and another setup for tone and tuning benefits though, as the resistance of the 10's isn't a problem on bends etc.).

Although this is my first electric, I knew about the good reputation of MIJ Strats (and particularly the 80's Strats. Aren't those supposed to be the best years for MIJ?) and did some research on Gold Lace Sensors vs. standard before buying. Also, someone at a different store showed me the same model new in a Fender Japan catalog and it was selling for $1200. At $490, I figured I was getting a good deal, even if I had a few "learning experiences" like the current situation. I've learned a lot in the first month!

-Still...MIJ Strats are everywhere here, so finding another for a trade-in would be easy. Given that I would go with another MIJ Strat and finding one (but with different pickups perhaps) would be easy, do you guys still say I should keep the one I have and work with it?

What are your thoughts on the Fender Gold Lace Sensor pickups? The shop manager said that those were better than the current MIJ Standard Strat pickups, which is partially why my used guitar cost the same as a new MIJ Standard Strat. I have researched the Laces vs. standard, but would love to hear feedback from plays who have actually played both on various amps. I have not played mine on an amp yet (-Just on my TASCAM and Vox AC30 amPlug. The store manager did a live amp demo of my guitar for me before purchase and they sounded rockin'!).

I go back and forth on the metallic gold color. Historically, I have never bought anything in gold, being a silver person, but something about this guitar grabbed me. I looked at the "quirky" color as a positive in that few others would likely have it. -Still, I go back and forth...

Another FYI--I was 90% sure I was going to buy a similarly priced LP going into my testing phase, but ended up liking the sound of the Strats better. I don't know why, as I'd done a lot of listening via Youtube and usually liked the LP. Upon actually playing though, the Strat sound seems more interesting to me and I liked the feel of the guitar--particularly the one I got.

Last FYI for now, when testing for purchase, I actually used my TASCAM GT-R1, rather than a real amp, as I didn't know anything about amps at the time and it allowed me to record the sounds and listen to them at home later to compare (with effects on or off). That's probably not a good way to test, but I thought it would serve as a good control and there seemed to always be people in the stores wailing with distortion, making me wonder how they could even hear the tone properly on the guitars they were testing with so much conflicting background noise.

I'm learning a lot and lots to learn!

All the best,

Chordial

[sneakypete]

one thing...there was a card saying it`s a -53 model? Thats a low end model, but, the lace sensors usually came in the Eric Clapton strat which had active p`ups and a small cavity on the back for the battery...does yours? If not, I`m guessing the p`ups are not original...UNLESS...it`s a shop order, and every MIJ Fender I own that is custom ordered says so in the neck pocket. A -53 model should be a basswood body, the EC model is not a low end model and not basswood but I have seen gold EC models before...so this is confusing. Personally I would not have paid that for a basswood FJ, as you say there are lots around. Which shop sold you the guitar...I ask because I`m in Japan as well and do see and own my share, but I`ve also left lots on shop floors...not all `80s FJs are worth owning in my opinion, the ones I do have...and thats quite a few...were the best ones I saw...custom editions, an ExTrad strat, and more than a couple from the `80s including JVs. We have a Rock Inn and a Shimamura locally though they don`t have much used gear, for that I go elsewhere aned Yahoo Japan has been an excellent sourse for me as has Hard Off and 2nd Street, even local antique shops. But don`t wait too long cause there is a limited cooling off period in Japan so if you`re gonna exchange it, times a tickin`. Lots of very good MIJs strats to look at nowadays...a used Edwards from the Duncan series would be an outstanding choice...the tone bursts I`ve seen were always two piece bodies and used they are a very good deal...I have a few. Old Grecos as well, but there are many people after those now. If you join Yahoo Japan you`ll not only have to outbid Japanese players but overseas players now that there are services who place bids for people outside the country for a fee, used to be a lot of fun hunting down the great old MIJs...now it`s less so but fortunately I got most of mine well before the awakening and for far less than people are paying now, but I still find great deals occasionally but they`re harder to find. So if you ain`t 100% happy with that strat, lose it and get another.

[ThreeHands]

Hey ya Chordial, I think you've got yourself a pretty good guitar.

With the amount of bumps and scratches you've mentioned, I'd say that this guitar may not have been used for live gigs.

I've got a H series MIJ that I picked up in the late 80's or early 90's ( memory not so good no more... ) I've used it as my second stage guitar. With regular live use I've has it refreted twice and the body repainted. even though its a basswood body I get just about the same tone from it as my 1957 Strat that I use as my number one stage guitar.

The only thing I've done is add DiMarzio HS-1 pickups and solid brass bridge saddles, Oh yeah and always use heavy strings (I use a custom set of 12 to 49's).

So would keep it and get a good tech to fix it.

[Chordial]

sneakypete-sensei,

Thank you sooo much for the super-helpful reply! O sewa ni narimasu. Yoroshiku onegaishimasu.

My heart 'bout stopped when I read about it possibly being a low-end model that I paid too much for. However, things are looking up, as it does have a battery cavity in the back (and now I need to learn about active pickups...).
Could my troubles be caused by a dead battery? Please see the pics posted with this reply for much better views of the guitar (battery cover removed for these pics, but I have it).

I read about the EC model on wiki-P (Eric Clapton Stratocaster - Wikipedia), but mine has 21 frets and the article says 22 for the ST54-LS (last paragraph under Features).

I came across a guy selling something that looks very similar to what I have here: TommyGuitars.com - Fender Japan ERIC CLAPTON Blackie in Pewter 11-16-92 MIJ. I don't see anything on the guitar itself to identify if it has the circuitry specified for the one this guy is selling (and I know nothing about Tommy Guitars). The one he's selling and mine sure do look alike, though. Like I said, I don't see any ID/ custom markings other than MADE IN JAPAN, serial number Jxxxxxx on the back of the neck. I have not gotten inside the guitar at all or removed the strings from the shop.

I bought the guitar at a local branch of Appollon music (Apollon ). As you know yen, I paid 49,800, which included a soft-carry case and setup for the 10 strings.

I would really appreciate any further help you can give and your thoughts on keeping or exchange, in light of the new information I have posted. Really, what I want is the best Strat I can get for $500 or less that I can learn on now and hit the stage with later. I'm the kind of person that will keep things a long time and take very good care of them. Short of equipment problems, it will be a number of years before I look at having more than one electric.

Again, thank you VERY much for your help and I eagerly await your next reply.

All the best,

Chordial

[Chordial]

One more pic...

[sneakypete]

well the new pics sure look like an EC model, and therefore not low end...I was looking at one just today in the Rock Inn and think it was about 80,ooo yen...didn`t look real close. I`ve know a little about that shop you mention, I used to visit their web site but it`s been sometime, I found them a bit more expensive than here so I never bought from them though I did see some interesting guitars...anyways...now that it appears to be an EC, I`d spring for a new battery and see if thats the problem, but it sounds to me like a simple electrical repair and frankly if the shop sold it in that condition they should fix it, I`d insist on it if it were me...I only have one FJ with lace sensors...a custom edition tele type that is outstanding, it`s the 1992 TLG-110LS 10th anniversary model and I have never had to look at the electronics so I`m not familiar with how the sensors are wired. So if you like the neck on that strat and they`ll fix it, you won`t lose any money should you bring it home and sell it at a future date, thats a pretty nice model though to me where a Japanese Fender fits into the pecking order us more important than when a model was made...except of course for the very first run JVs, every one of those I own is nice...but FJ made top end guitars from the beginning and it`s not like they forgot how to make great guitars, even today they make very high end stuff like the top of the line DiMarzio series...and in the `90s they made excellent guitars and some of mine I think are every bit as nice as the $5000.oo F/USAs in shops I see and thats no BS...my ExTrad and custom editions are at least as good as my team built F/USA custom shops ...and thats not to say ALL FJs from the `80s are great...they ain`t, by the middle of the decade the line-up had expanded quite a bit and there was a lot of average stuff, but when ya find a good one they can be very good.

[sneakypete]

just noticed...don`t you have the cover for the battery cavity?

[Chordial]

-Just found these tidbits about a later model of the EC Strat that might apply to mine:

The two most important features of this guitar are its MDX (Mid Active Boost) circuit which boosts the mid-range frequencies up to 25 dB. He refers to the sound this circuit produces as ‘compression’. While boosting the mid it rolls off the high frequencies and has a more humbucker-like sound to it. This circuit is also called the ‘Clapton Circuit’. The other is the TBX tone control which stands for Treble Bass Xpander. It’s located on the 2nd tone control knob and consists of two 250k ohm potentiometers one on top of the other. The first is normal potentiometer while the 2nd one has the TBX circuit on it. The knob has a detent or center point at the ‘5’ position on the knob. Here the control acts like a normal tone control at the ‘10’ position so when you go from ‘5’ to ‘0’ the TBX circuit acts like a normal tone control with a shorter range to it. Going up from the ‘5’ to ‘10’ position the treble is increased...This guitar requires a 9-volt battery which can easily be replaced. The active electronics are turned on when the ¼ guitar cable in plugged in. You can check if you need a new battery by turning the Mid-Boost control all the way down and putting the guitar’s volume at about ‘5’. Then play it through a clean sounding amp and if it sounds distorted then you need to replace the battery.

So far the above seems to describe my situation very closely! -Next step:

Test with a new battery! -Will post what I find.

Chordial

[Chordial]

Yes, I have the battery cover. I just posted some text to make sure folks know that. I just took the cover off in case it was helpful to viewers.

It's definitely looking like an EC model, as the tone controls seem to follow the TBX information exactly. I just tested with another battery. It sounded a bit better, but it's not a new battery either, so I am going to pick up a new one tonight and do another test.

When in position 3 for middle pu only, it did cut out when testing with the second battery just now. When jiggling the selector switch, the pu comes back in. So, that may be a separate issue to hassle the store about.

Well, this explains a lot -- particulary why this guitar sounded so good to me when testing -- even better than the $1K+ American Strats I tried. It is designed to do classic Strat sound, Tele-type sound or even a little faux Les Paul! Whoot!

-Twould have been nice if the shop guy had made sure I was aware of the electronics and battery issue, though. He knew it was my first electric and there was no literature with it showing what it had. My guess is that the ST57-53 card and manual are for a different guitar.

I do very much like the feel of the neck. I go back and forth on the color, but it's growing on me by the day. When I bought it, it seemed to be telling me it was my guitar.

So...I'll test with a new battery and take it from there with the selector and tuning issues. It's looking like a keeper, though.

I'll post what I find out and check periodically for yours and other's input. I REALLY appreciate everyone's help and yours in particular, sneakypete. I am very glad I posted here before going back to the shop. I would have walked in not even knowing what my guitar had in it!

All the best,

Chordial

[Strat-Man-Do]

Here's how the EC works..............TBX T=Treble B=Bass X=Cut. The middle knob is your TBX circuit. Its notched at 5. Which means 5 is actually 0 5-10 is the Treble Cut 5-1 is the Bass cut. The last Tone knob is your Mid-Boost circuit. For a CLOSE to vintage Strat Tone you 'll need to be around 1-2 on the TBX and 0-1 on the mid-boost.

Your nut really needs filing to correct the problem.

Keep the Strat its NICE! Shoreline GOLD w/Maple and all Vintage hardware is Classic FENDER!

I would try Amazon for a Dan Erlewine- Guitar Repair Manual. You'll safe a LOT of time and cash doing all these little repairs.

Sounds to me like your Strat was repaired correctly [electronics]

[BOD2]

If you get a distorted sound out any guitar with active circuitry then the first thing to check is always the battery. As the battery dies the voltage drops and it can't supply enough power to power up the active circuit correctly - which results in a messy, distorted tone.

The general advice for active circuitry is to always use a high quality Alkaline battery. Don't use a rechargeable battery.

IMPORTANT NOTE : with an active guitar inserting a jack lead into the guitar switches on the active circuitry, even if you are not playing the guitar. To prolong battery life always UNLPUG the guitar when not in use.

[Strat-Man-Do]

I was thinking, if you go to Harmony Central and check out the Reviews on the EC Strat [signature]. You'll catch a TON of usefull info on them. I know I posted a in-depth review their still on the opening page.

[orcslayer]

Since your guitar has an active boost I would suggest : replace the battery then try the guitar through a good amp. I have found that some practice devices don't like active input items. Perhaps either your Vox headphone amp or the Tascam unit may be the problem.

If that's not the problem, take it to a qualified Fender repair tech & spend the money for a proper repair. That axe is a keeper!

[ThreeHands]

With your Low E string losing its tune I Would be looking at your tem. getting its set up correctly may help with the guitar holding it tune.

Fender Strat setup for a Foating trem:-
If you (like me) Use a foating setup.
You will need to
Put some blokes in the tem to hold it where you want it.
then wind the screws on the back sping plate up hard.
(this will stop the tem from moving while you tune the strings)
then tune and stetch the strings in (and play them a bit) and tune them again.
then remove the tem blocks and unwind the back srew plate, til the string s go back in tune.

then you will have set the fender floating trem. as per leo's design.
this should fix your detuning issue with the Low E.

Cheers

AC

[sneakypete]

Originally Posted by BOD2

IMPORTANT NOTE : with an active guitar inserting a jack lead into the guitar switches on the active circuitry, even if you are not playing the guitar. To prolong battery life always UNLPUG the guitar when not in use.

good point.


of course the battery is always the first thing to check, if the problem persists it`s obviously elsewhere so we`ll wait to see what happens when you get a new battery. There are a couple of those models in the Ishibashi U-Box now so you can get an idea of how much they go for. Generally thats a model that doesn`t lose it`s value on the used market so I think you did good.

[sneakypete]

so you`re new to electrics meaning...you play acoustics? What do you play steel or nylon? I ask because since you are in Japan you should watch for old Yamaha Dynamic nylon string guitars, I have a whole bunch of em now and love them, everybody seems to be after the Yamaha FG red labels now but the Dynamics are all solid wood and practically completely unknown, they came before the FGs, my oldest with a 3 digit serial evidently goes back to the early `50s...I`ll post more about em if you`re interested.

[Chordial]

Good news, guys!

It looks like the unwanted distortion issue was being caused by a low battery. I put in a new alkaline (thanks for the tip! I would have gotten a rechargeable without it) last night and it sounds like what I remember from the week I had it pre-repair. Actually, it sounds better, because I was using the TASCAM only then and now I have the Vox AC30 amPlug (I usually use them together when practicing. Vox for the guitar amp and TASCAM for drum/metronone, backing tracks, recording, etc.). I can still get some distortion on it, but I think that is to be expected when pumping up the mid-boost high (one of the reviewers on Harmony Central called the mid-boost the "scary button" he-he).

I feel like a ninny for not knowing about the battery, TBX and mid-boost, but I didn't know that I had an EC model Strat! It was sold as a ST54-LS (when they repaired it, they wrote ST57-LS, but I think that was an clerical error). The manual is an older generic Strat manual that has nothing in it about electronics. My prior research into the Lace sensors and ST54-LS didn't lead me to learn about the battery and active circuitry.

I will post more about where I am at musically later - my history, equipment and tastes. Right now, I want to ask you about the remaining two issues with my Strat.

First, the selector switch still has a problem. After putting in the new battery, and in position 3 for middle pu only, the pu will cut out if I accidentally flick the selector switch while strumming. The flick has almost no force to it, so the impact is almost nothing. When this happens, I have to jiggle the selector knob around lightly until the sound comes back. Pre-purchase, I noticed that, when playing through the TASCAM, the selector switch made a little bit of a static sound when changing selections (no other tested guitar did this), but when testing it on a true combo amp, it didn't seem to make the switching noise. The manager thought there might be some rust on the selector wheel from lack of use. He said that with play, that would go away and I believe he oiled the selector switch. Prior to the repair, I did not notice any pickups cutting out.

So, I'd like to get your feedback on this and find out what I should ask for in a repair. Is there a certain piece of equipment I should replace the current selector with, like a specific brand and model of new selector switch? If needed, should I offer to buy the part if the shop will cover the labor?

On the tuning issue, I think I need to take the guitar to the store and play around with it in reference to other Strats. I did this in testing pre-purchase and mine actually seemed the easiest to tune out of all the Strats I tested (USA, Japan and Mexican). Perhaps there is a simple solution that my inexperience is causing me to not see here.

Anyhoo, I humbly and gratefully ask for your advice on the selector (and tuning if you feel like it). I will probably be too tied up today for another post, but will be checking periodically for your replies. I probably will go to the shop in the next few days, so I am eager for your feedback.

Thank you sooo much for all this help. You guys rock!

All the best,

Chordial

[Chordial]

Oh, some quick info on the tuning problem:

After tuning,if the guitar is strummed strongly for a number of seconds, three or four of the strings will lose about a quarter of a tone (will go about half a fret flat). The bass E string is the worst for this. All the strings, save the G and high E require a reasonable amount of turning pressure to turn, but this may be normal, as I am coming from an acoustic and the other Strats I tested felt about the same.

Generally, all of the strings will a quarter to semi-tone flat after playing for 10 to 20 minutes.

[ThreeHands]

Some sets of strings need to really stretch in before they will hold their tuning.
You can bend the string one at a time across say the 12 fret pull the low E down to around the G string around 5 times them retune it and then do it again. do the same to the other strings and them give them all a tuning and then play it for a bit.

[chuckdup]

go chordial- its your birtday- go chordial- its your birthday. i love guitar storys with happy endings. go and get yourself a good repair/maint manual can tell by the detail in your post youll love all the wonderful info within. now for some advice on your seccond ele guitar purchase, hmmm...........laters.........chuck