vibrato: 6-bolt v 2-bolt

[Mark 63]

What are the advantages of a 2-bolt pivot vs the old-style 6-bolt? Aside from incremental cost savings in manufacturing.

Wouldn't a 6-bolt pivot be more stable?

[Boris Bubbanov]

I like the six screw type. I replace the stock screws with hardened ones from Bill Callaham.

I think the new aftermarket parts will be focused on the 6 screw design language, just as they are based around the vintage Tele 'ashtray' setup.

One example is Dale Clark's new Chimemaster. I have that on my Highway One, and that and a big aftermarket neck have made that my go to Fender Strat.


My Am Se style Strats are sort of land-locked. They're ok, but I would like to change them and make them better and there's seemingly nowhere to go.

[dan P]

What you CAN do with a two point vs a six screw is raise the complete bridge and have it level in relation to the body...other than that its a crapshoot

[bobthecanadian]

I learned a little trick from Ron Kirn in that I use short pieces of rubber surgical tubing between the guitar and tremolo/bridge plate. It give me a little extra room for adjustment and a really smooth feeling trem.

[dan P]

Hi Bob, 2 point or 6 screw, and what did you do...?

[bobthecanadian]

I use vintage six screw tremolos. Before I install the tremolo I cut six short pieces of surgical tubing, put the screws through the bridge plate and then put the rubber over the screws so that it looks like a short sleeve. I then install the bridge onto the body. I turn the screw so that there is pressure squeezing on the tubing, but not so much as it would crush it. If the distance on the front of the bridge is too high or low I adjust it.

Next, add springs and string it up. Tune to pitch checking the bridge height at the front and read. Adjust to taste and re-check.

There is a bit of a balancing act to get everything to work well together but it is well worth the effort. Between adjusting the trem springs and the front screws on the trem there can be a lot of little tweaking to do, but it goes quickly enough. After doing some other set up and intonation it is a good idea to check back at the condition of the trem, so I do. After playing for a couple of days I may feel like it needs a little more adjustment so that I like it better, but it's easy and quick.

I like the rear of the trem a little higher than the front so that it is fully floating. It also makes for a well-mannered trem and with a well cut and lubed nut makes for a guitar that stays in tune as well.

One more thing I use three springs and adjust them at the claw to get the feel and action that feels best for me.

Cheers,

Bob

[Nobster]

My very limited experience of the two: The 2 point works better as stock. The 6 point is more period correct if a vintage look is important to you.

My CP60's came with the 2 point trem and I'm amazed at how well it works and stays in tune and needs no special adjustment or tricks. It's very easy to set it parallel floating with the body, in fact it came perfectly set up. I should add however that I have never tried a 6 point with the surgical tubing trick. I hadn't heard of that when I had a strat with a 6 point trem.

[Mark 63]

What problem does the tubing correct?

I have very limited experience with whammy bars, but just bought a AV 62 stratocaster. It has the vintage tremelo, which seems to work nicely. It stays in tune pretty well. My only other frames of reference go back to the 1980s: an Ibanez Roadstar with a strat-like tremelo and a Rickenbacker 330 with a Bigsby--neither of which stayed in tune after any woggling of the whammy bar.

[bobthecanadian]

What problems does the tubing correct?

well, from my limited knowledge I would say that it does two things.

1. It adds a little room for adjustment at the front of the bridge in that it can raise or lower it a little. Maybe a thicker longer piece would yield different results, but I haven't tried.

2. The extra cushion add for a nice, smooth response on the trem. I wrap a little tape on the whammy bar so that it doesn't wiggle.

Anyhow, that's how I see it. I just try out different things or make it up as I go along. I got the idea from Ron Kirn, so he is probably the guy to ask.

Bob

[dan P]

Thank you Bob, interesting mod, I usually just take and screw the inside 4 to about a eigth above the plate and the outside two a sixteenth.. seems to be the place that works the best...for me anyway...!

[bobthecanadian]

Really? That's simple enough then isn't it?

The first time I had no idea how to install the tremolo so I just got everything level without adding any pressure to the front of the trem.

I tell you what, on the next trem that I set up I will try the way you do it to see how it works. If you find a piece of tubing try it out and one day we can talk about it.

Peace,

Bob

[thaus]

Some really interesting advice here! Will have to play around with the various set-ups. My best set-up is on my 50's classic which has a vintage style Callaham trem. I honestly don't notice a big difference with the modern 2-screw or 6 screw trems. I used to prefer the aesthetics of the modern but now actually like the look of the vintage. One thing that Bob mentioned which is often glossed over is proper adjustment of the trem-claw screws. These really need to be in perfect position to complete any set-up. I go so far as measuring the screws and setting up my other strats to be the same. I also prefer 4 or 5 springs.........

[dan P]

their really is no set place for the trem screws and you have to play with the fine tuning in equalizing the string tension with the claw and spring tension to come to a happy medium, but just playing with it for a bit will give you a idea of it operation, I dont use 4 springs, have , but it just makes the trem stiffer...3 is the norm..and works just fine...two springs will cause the trem to move on you when bending...