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Old December 6th, 2013, 02:10 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Vintage kluson style tuners lock

I heard there was this locking/tying method on the vintage style tuners. Can someone explain? I'm really interested

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Old December 6th, 2013, 02:57 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Locking tuners are a different thing - there are Gotoh style that clamp the string and then hold it :

For stringing 'normal' vintage tuners see :
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Old December 6th, 2013, 03:45 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Do you mean these:
New TonePros Kluson TPKF6BL N Nickel 6 in Line Locking Tuners | eBay
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Old December 6th, 2013, 06:01 AM   #4 (permalink)
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No, no. I meant the regular vintage style tuners. But i've heard there was a stringing method on the vintage tuners that involved "locking the string on itself" or something like this. Guessing it's not literally locking.
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Old December 6th, 2013, 06:07 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by omrikeren View Post
No, no. I meant the regular vintage style tuners. But i've heard there was a stringing method on the vintage tuners that involved "locking the string on itself" or something like this. Guessing it's not literally locking.
i think they just mean the way to wind the strings on, they poke down the middle about an inch, crimp to wind around..... they are EXTREMELY stable.... i like vintage about 10,000% better than "locking" tuners


i use the same method as the bottom video (JestersTear1's post above) but give it 3 tuners length
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Old December 6th, 2013, 08:12 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I have Gotoh locking vintage tuners on all my Strats and I tend to lock the string and then wind round the post a couple of times (like with a normal tuner).

Rock solid!
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Old December 6th, 2013, 08:49 AM   #7 (permalink)
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No, no. I meant the regular vintage style tuners. But i've heard there was a stringing method on the vintage tuners that involved "locking the string on itself" or something like this. Guessing it's not literally locking.
The way I prepare the string involves cutting it the right length, then to prep the string with needle nosed pliers. You put two 90 degrees bends into it, one to correspond to the string emerging from the hole into the slot, and a second as the string leaves the slot and begins winding like a spring around the post. Down and down, to a point where the string takes off for the tree or the nut slot. Not only do you not "lock" the string but you take every necessary measure so that the string never overlaps or binds at all. You're basically making a spring by hand, if you think about it.

I wish I could say this use is widespread, but it seems to elude most players. I love it, never load a split shaft any other way.



Cut the E, A, B and little E about 2 inches long past their posts; cut the D 2.5 inches long and the G 3 inches long. In this way, these 2 strings get a "poor man's string tree". The string leaves the post lower than the other 4.
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Old December 6th, 2013, 09:50 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Boris Bubbanov View Post
The way I prepare the string involves cutting it the right length, then to prep the string with needle nosed pliers. You put two 90 degrees bends into it, one to correspond to the string emerging from the hole into the slot, and a second as the string leaves the slot and begins winding like a spring around the post. Down and down, to a point where the string takes off for the tree or the nut slot. Not only do you not "lock" the string but you take every necessary measure so that the string never overlaps or binds at all. You're basically making a spring by hand, if you think about it.

I wish I could say this use is widespread, but it seems to elude most players. I love it, never load a split shaft any other way.



Cut the E, A, B and little E about 2 inches long past their posts; cut the D 2.5 inches long and the G 3 inches long. In this way, these 2 strings get a "poor man's string tree". The string leaves the post lower than the other 4.
Why did you remove the 2nd string tree?
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Old December 6th, 2013, 10:04 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Okay! Thank you very much
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Old December 6th, 2013, 06:04 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Why did you remove the 2nd string tree?
It was doing virtually nothing. I felt there was a chance the string was just resonating against the tree, making noise.

Bear in mind, I've done scores of these with only the one tree; they all delivered the mail. Normally I like to leave trees alone but this one truly wasn't doing much of anything.

The extra string and the winds down the post are a "poor man's string tree". When you have the job 97% done a second real tree is liable to just get in the way. By comparison as the image I think shows, the B little E tree does do real work.
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