Re-issue necks and tuning machines

[VAPhotog]

I want to replace the rosewood-capped neck on my MIM Strat with a maple neck. I also want to replace the tuning machines. I'm looking at using parts from a MIM Strat re-issue. I'm ditching the rosewood neck as I like the feel of a maple neck. I'm replacing the tuning machines because the originals suck. Can anybody speak to the quality of the MIM re-issue gear?

I'm not gigging with the guitar, I'm just a hobbyist. But I really tire of constantly tweaking the tuning.

I appreciate your comments.

[remember5]

I had a 2003 "Splatter" strat that was MIM and it stayed in tune as well as my 2005 USA Standard. But, I'm running 5 springs and don't use the tremolo bar so it's like a hard tail. Both stayed in tune very well. That didn't answer your question, but the tremolo bar definately affects tuning and I feel like all these newer Fenders stay in tune better than the old ones.

[BluesOwl]

I'm assuming that both sets of tuners
1) MIM rosewood fretboard neck
2) MIM re-issue neck

were vintage style. I'd think they'd behave the same.
2 suppliers to Fender for vintage style tuners
a) Gotoh (japan) I think MIA / MIM use these
2) Ping (China?) I think MIK use these

I think the current opinion from a lot of folks is that they are OK.

Other tuning stability things to try:
1) lube the nut slots with a graphite (there is a "nut sauce" product out there)
I use a graphite liquid slurry that dries to black powder. Not sure brand (I'll re-post) I apply it using a piece of small E guitar string.
why: when you bend strings, they slide in the nut. They need to slide back to return to correct pitch, if they don't, the string pitch will be flat.
You can just use a pencil. Scrape it across the nut slots (strings off) to get some graphite in there.

2) Same principle for the string trees, but use chapstick or vaseline.

3) Same principle (sort of) for saddles. Just wet a q-tip with WD-40 or 3-in-1 oil and daub the top of the saddles (not too much...oil is not the best for the wood...don't put too much on...it'll wick around the bridge plate and get down onto the wood via a mounting hole).

4) Good stretching of new strings. I use stretching techniques like:
- fret hand frets string at fret and pick hand pulls up on string...repeat at other frets.
- tune the string up (sharp) past intended note. Go up a couple (or 3-4) half steps then back down slightly below pitch. Stretch once more by hand and tune up to pitch.

See if any of that helps.

If you've changed to bigger strings at some point, the nut slots may be too narrow and you're getting binding that results in the same pitch-flatting that occurs as described above...may need nut slots widened.

Tuner bushings end up frustrating many people. MIA & MIJ vintage necks are drilled at 11/32" (0.34375"). Others are drilled at 10mm (0.3937") ...a little bigger.
A lot of the after market vintage style tuners come with bushings that fit 10 mm.
You can't push them into the 11/32" holes without risk of spitting wood.

I bought some Wilkinson brand...should be good....delrin bushing..other superior features...but still look like vintage. Bushings won't fit my neck.

I'm going to enlarge the holes by one of the safest methods possible...a tapered reamer (just insert and twist and it take wood out little by little...keeping the hole edge nice and clean)

Good luck, hope all this ifo helps.