Re-string:Trick to get perfect amount of slack?

[mrcrappypantson]

Is there a trick to get just the right amount of slack in your new strings to get the optimal 2-3 wraps?

[Dauntless]

What type of tuners?

[Boris Bubbanov]

If you use many of these lockers, you really don't need any wraps, except that wraps down the posts of the D and especially the G string will reduce some undesirable sounds you may have if you have but one string tree.

I use Gotoh 'kluson' non locking vintage tuners and use minimal wraps; 1 1/2 or 2 is plenty, the first of which I apply by hand before touching the tuner buttons.

As for conventional tuners. I don't like losing my whole set of strings everytime I take one string off the post, so I don't use them. The compromise between all the tuning drift associated with all these extra winds - balanced against keeping the fine strings from slipping out of the holes in the posts. I've done that long enough, thanks but no thanks. And tying or twisting strings to bind them, what a pain in the behind. No More.

Bubbanov

[mrcrappypantson]

They are the standard Fender tuning machines. Stock on a 2007 American strat. They have the staggered heights. Thought I'd mention that just incase even though I don't think it matters.

[imwjl]

I make an arch with my fingers above the fingerboard that's maybe 4 inches and it equals about 3 wraps. I do a locking wrap with a little more for the unwound strings. You should be able to see photos of what I'm describing if you do some web searches.

Now I have locking tuners on my Dlx., and see the love people have for them but I'm not ready to throw away perfectly fine tuners on other guitars.

Good luck.

[Rob DiStefano]

Originally Posted by mrcrappypantson

Is there a trick to get just the right amount of slack in your new strings to get the optimal 2-3 wraps?

I'm not sure I understand yer question ... what "slack"?

When restringing any Fender with standard vintage Kluson style tuners, and only one E/B string tree, measure off 2-1/2 tuner lengths past each tuner in question for the E and A strings and cut. For the D string measure off 5 tuner lengths, 6 for the G string and 2-1/2 to 3 for the E/B strings. This insures that yer winding down enuf on the tuner posts to get the best string angle rear of the nut.

[thaus]

Originally Posted by Rob DiStefano

I'm not sure I understand yer question ... what "slack"?

When restringing any Fender with standard vintage Kluson style tuners, and only one E/B string tree, measure off 2-1/2 tuner lengths past each tuner in question for the E and A strings and cut. For the D string measure off 5 tuner lengths, 6 for the G string and 2-1/2 to 3 for the E/B strings. This insures that yer winding down enuf on the tuner posts to get the best string angle rear of the nut.

Rob's got it down.......hate to think how many guitars he's strung up over the years.

[Axis29]

Originally Posted by Rob DiStefano

I'm not sure I understand yer question ... what "slack"?

When restringing any Fender with standard vintage Kluson style tuners, and only one E/B string tree, measure off 2-1/2 tuner lengths past each tuner in question for the E and A strings and cut. For the D string measure off 5 tuner lengths, 6 for the G string and 2-1/2 to 3 for the E/B strings. This insures that yer winding down enuf on the tuner posts to get the best string angle rear of the nut.

Hmm, that's much more than I usually add to mine. Rob's done a lot more than I have... but less has always worked for me.

[2Buck Chuck]

I don't think it's really all that critical, and I agree with Axis29, I have a lot less string wrapped around my standard posts. I usually hold the string taut and about one tuner length away I bend the string at 90 degrees, then insert it into the tuner and wind. For the unwound strings I do the same measurement and bend, but I loop the end back around and into the tuner hole and pull it tight. In my experience this helps keep the unwound strings from slipping. I cut the strings down after I've tuned them up to pitch. The key is to make sure windings don't overlap. I've never had a problem with this method over the last 40 years or so.

Interestingly, the Fender site has a different method:

Standard keys. To reduce string slippage at the tuning key, we recommend using a tie technique. This is done by pulling the string through the keyhole and then pulling it clockwise underneath and back over itself; creating a knot. You'll need to leave a bit of slack for the first string so you have at least two or three winds around the post. As you progress to the sixth string, you'll reduce the amount of slack and the number of winds around the keys.

Vintage keys. For these, you'll want to pre-cut the strings to achieve the proper length and desired amount of winds. Pull the sixth string (tautly, remember) to the fourth key and cut it. Pull the fifth string to the third key and cut it. Pull the fourth string between the second and first keys and cut it. Pull the third string nearly to the top of the headcap and cut it. Pull the second string about a 1/2" (13 mm) past the headcap and cut it. Finally, pull the first string 1 1/2" (38 mm) past the top of the headcap and cut it. Insert into the center hole in the tuning key, bend and crimp to a 90-degree angle, and wind neatly in a downward pattern, being carefull to prevent overlapping of the strings.

If your tuning keys have a screw on the end of the button, check the tightness of the screw. This controls the tension of the gears inside the tuning keys. Do not over-tighten these screws. They should be "finger-tight." This is very important, especially on locking tuners.