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Is this attentuator build simple and effective???

Discussion in 'Amp Input - Normal or Bright' started by bob_66, Jan 2, 2019.

  1. bob_66

    bob_66 Strat-Talker

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    Im looking at simple attenuators for a 5-6 watt valve amp. Is something like this effective without affecting the tone too much?? It
    Looks easy to build for someone like me with little experience of electronics. Or is there a better easy to build option,ive looked on google and it all tends to get a bit complicated and /or expensive.
    https://guitar.com/guides/diy-workshop/diy-workshop-build-your-own-attenuator/
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2019
  2. fezz parka

    fezz parka The Return of the Red Helmet Strat-Talk Supporter

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    L-Pad attenuators work fine. If your cranking the amp wide open, don't expect much clean, but they do the job.
     
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  3. bob_66

    bob_66 Strat-Talker

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    Thanks , are there any better simple builds ?? I get confused by attenuator`s ,load boxes ,resistive v reactive .etc....
    Ready built attenuators are so expensive and probably only have a handful of bits inside the box . Seen quite a few schematics but cant read them so not much use.:)
     
  4. fezz parka

    fezz parka The Return of the Red Helmet Strat-Talk Supporter

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    All you need is the L-Pad, a box and two 1/4" phone jacks. The othe4 stuff is nice...but unnecessary.
     
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  5. fezz parka

    fezz parka The Return of the Red Helmet Strat-Talk Supporter

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    lpad.png
     
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  6. bob_66

    bob_66 Strat-Talker

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    Thanks Fez, ive bought some bits including the extras and will put together and try it. I dont mind this as i like making stuff and hopefully learning how things work.
     
  7. fezz parka

    fezz parka The Return of the Red Helmet Strat-Talk Supporter

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    I have one I built. It does the job. :D
     
  8. bob_66

    bob_66 Strat-Talker

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    Ok , just built the one on the website https://guitar.com/guides/diy-workshop/diy-workshop-build-your-own-attenuator/
    Got two of the switches in opposite positions to the guitar.com one.
    What id like to know as this is actually my first electronics build , which direction do these switches work . Most important the impedance switch which is supposed to be 4/8 ohms , only need 8 at moment .
    Hard to explain but its a simple on off switch but if you switch to the left is it the stuff connected to the back right that is activated or the same side?? Old switches with spring connectors were easy as you can see the switching.:(

    Same for the bright switch which is a on/off/on type if i push the switch in the direction of the 4.7uf capacitor is it that which is activated or the opposite. Sorry for the dumb questions but like i said its the first time ive done any of this.

    Also not sure ive bought the correct on/off/on switch as it will not engage in the on position -either way. I know some dont do that unless power is applied but as its a passive device is the signal in the amp to speaker chain enough to work the switch??

    Image attached of what ive done and hopefully orientation is obvious compared to guitar.com
    example, please ignore wire colours as i just used what i had lying around.
     

    Attached Files:

  9. Knuckles Nucleus

    Knuckles Nucleus Strat-Talk Member

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    Awesome avatar,I love that guy
     
  10. fezz parka

    fezz parka The Return of the Red Helmet Strat-Talk Supporter

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    Those extra switches are unnecessary. I wouldn't (and didn't) use anything like that.
     
  11. bob_66

    bob_66 Strat-Talker

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    Probably are unnecessary but id still like to figgure the switch for the impedance .
    On the site i followed it says ``When the switch connects the resistor to ground, it operates in parallel with the L-Pad and the attenuator’s impedance drops to 4 ohms.``


    so i would like help to determine which way to flick the simple on/off switch to ensure its at 8 ohms?

    Also a drawing in the correct orientation when looking at the attenuator as ive wired it ,which way does switch go?
    Thanks
     

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    Last edited: Jan 6, 2019
  12. fezz parka

    fezz parka The Return of the Red Helmet Strat-Talk Supporter

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    Do you have a meter?
     
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  13. bob_66

    bob_66 Strat-Talker

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    Have a multimeter lying around ,dont really know how to use it though.
     
  14. johnnymg

    johnnymg Most Honored Senior Member Strat-Talk Supporter

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    OK............ now is a good time to figure out how to use the OHMeter part of the meter. What brand/model do you have?

    This level of troubleshooting is pretty basic and safe.
     
  15. fezz parka

    fezz parka The Return of the Red Helmet Strat-Talk Supporter

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    Set it to DC resistance (ohms) and measure across the legs of the switch. one way it'll be 8 the other it'll be 4.
     
  16. bob_66

    bob_66 Strat-Talker

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    I`ll have to check tomorrow as being in UK its getting late.
     
  17. Sarnodude

    Sarnodude Senior Stratmaster

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    youtube is your friend..
     
  18. JasonSD

    JasonSD Strat-Talker

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    Funny. I was thinking of building my own and was on that page on one screen when I clicked your link in this thread and it took me to the same page.

    I was thinking of trying that one, supposed to be a clone of the Dr Z Z air brake. Think prices went up since that thread because it added up to about $130 US for me.

    http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/5272/wtb-dr-z-airbrake
     
  19. bob_66

    bob_66 Strat-Talker

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    CAnt make head nor tail of the readings. I checked the resistance of the wire wound resistor (8.2 ohms) to see if i was doing it right , which read 8.5 .
    Across the switch terminals read .4 with the switch to the right and 1. with switch to left. Maybe doing it wrong ???

    Update i do get 8.5 ohm with the probes on leg 3 of the Lpad and the ground sleeve on the input jack with the switch to the right but just that 1 thing with the switch to the left.
    A i putting the probes in the wrong places?????o_O
     

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    Last edited: Jan 7, 2019
  20. bob_66

    bob_66 Strat-Talker

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    Yes i looked at that one but thought id try this first. The airbrake was more costly in parts and some of the bits were out of stock when i looked at one or two of the uk suppliers.
     
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