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Discussion in 'Amp Input - Normal or Bright' started by bob_66, Jan 2, 2019.
Black to ground. Red to a leg of the switch.
doesnt seem to matter if i put the probe between the ground on the input jack and the switch or whatever i`m still getting this 00.4
How is the meter set? You want it on the lowest ohms setting. In this case below it's 200 ohms.
Like in the photos 3-4 posts back,200 ohms.
I did make an error wiring the output jack initially when trying to fault find.Just had the two wires on the jack the wrong way around but it doesnt make any difference to the switch readings.
So is no-one able to figure this out ?? This is supposed to be the complete circuit diagram.
I've made one and it was very disappointing. It was sucking a lot of tone.
Thanks for your view on it, i only really need it to take the edge of the volume at home , amp isnt super loud to begin with .
Ok try this drawn to exactly how ive wired it. Does it look right and if so how do i determine which way the impedance switch works???
when i turn the l-pad knob right around one way i get 16 ohms between the right leg of the impedance switch and ground but only when the switch is to the left. When switch is to the right i get this 00.4. I dont know how to understand these readings?
Set your meter for continuity. Place one lead on one of the center lugs, then the other on a corresponding (next to) on one of the outside lugs. Flip the switch. When you get continuity, that's the side that's connected.
The impedance switch only has two lugs as in the drawing above post #28
If i set it to continuity . For the two lug impedance switch ,with the one probe on each the lug and the switch to the left it beeps and reads 15 . With the switch to the right it beeps and reads 000?? What does that mean?
Something is messed up. You should not get continuity in both positions.
i cant figure what, i must have checked everything a dozen times
1. put in a fresh battery into your multimeter
Use simple readings first. L-Pad fully cranked (full output and not dialed back like when attenuating the volume)
2. Measure the input ohm readings on the input jack.
3. Measure the output readings on the output jack.
Switch the impedance switch and make measurings 2. and 3. again.
Thanks in advance.
All the best,
Robin, i will try again tomorrow morning if i understand what you`ve wrote that is , as this is the first time ive done any electronic build .
It's very difficult to trouble shoot this remotely.
I would recommend going back to square one and just using the L-pad ONLY. That's all you need. All the other stuff in that box is just a confused mess.
Which is why I posted the simple schematic.
YES, I apologize for not referencing your original post.
I'm just glad to see someone else recognizing that other crap isn't needed. LOL
This is the most important function of the attenuator.
It must consistently present the expected load to the amp at all settings.
If the box doesn't present a reasonably correct load, nothing else really matters.
I wouldn't worry about adding the fizz caps until the basic function was working.