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MIM bridge not returning from bending up

Discussion in 'Stratocaster Discussion Forum' started by Stratoguy, Apr 26, 2018.

  1. Stratoguy

    Stratoguy Strat-Talk Member

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    Hi there, first post so don't be cruel.
    I've just got my brand.new.used MIM 60s lake placid blue rosewood strat and it's got that real strato-sound I love.
    Now the problem: the bridge (if properly set about 3 mm from the body) will not return to tuned position: everything will go in place only if I push down the trem. I'm not talking about little detuning: the bridge gets stuck far from initial position and stay firmly there as if it was an equilibrated position for the springs/strings tensions.
    If I place the claw near the bridge (detensioning the springs) to raise the back of the bridge to an unacceptable 6-8 mm everything works correctly in both ways.
    The guy who sold the guitar was, as far as i've understood, a real beginner: bought the guitar 2001, played a little and kept under the bed for years.
    Could the springs be that old not to work as they should? The nut seems to work propely with no noise or friction.
    Any help appreciated. thanks in advance for your time
     
  2. Guitarmageddon

    Guitarmageddon Dr. Stratster Strat-Talk Supporter

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    Welcome to the forum!

    You're forgetting one major part of the tremolo system...the 6 mounting screws....if those are too tight...it will prevent the bridge from returning to proper position....

    ALSO tight nut slots or not lubing the nut or the string trees can cause this too...

    Have you had a professional setup done on this guitar ever??? If so I would recommend it.....it's a matter of balance - with properly stretched new strings to begin with (if they're not stretched it will never stay in tune and always detune)....proper spring tension to balance string tension, and nut slot setup....

    What gauge strings are you using?
     
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  3. brians

    brians Senior Stratmaster

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    @Guitarmageddon can you please expand on how the six screws on the bridge should theoretically be set up? Thanks
     
  4. Guitarmageddon

    Guitarmageddon Dr. Stratster Strat-Talk Supporter

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    My method is to first deck the bridge so it's flat against the body.....and then tighten all 6 screws for the mounting of the bridge until just snug/tight....don't overtighten....then I back all of them off one full turn....

    This leaves enough room for the bridge to pivot...you can then proceed to set the bridge for floating setup like this

     
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  5. Stratoskater

    Stratoskater Most Honored Senior Member

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    The inner 4 should be about 1/2-3/4 of a turn from being fully screwed down. The two outside ones should be screwed in a bit lower but not so tight they bind the bridge from moving. This way even a 6 screw is still basically pivoting on the outer two screws. You can see in the still shot of the vid Ryan posted how the middle 4 are raised above the plate a good bit more than the outer two.
     
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  6. Frankg11

    Frankg11 Strat-Talker

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    I personally used this method.



    Fruda Videos on Strats are awewsome
     
  7. Guitarmageddon

    Guitarmageddon Dr. Stratster Strat-Talk Supporter

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    That's another method...there's really no hard rules....I just do what works for me....
     
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  8. Stratoskater

    Stratoskater Most Honored Senior Member

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    In the still screen from your video you can clearly see the 4 middle screws raised as I posted.
     
  9. gofmusic

    gofmusic Senior Stratmaster

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    If the bridge is visible not returning to position, then its got to be the 6 screws. They may be misaligned, or too tight, as others said, you gotta set that up properly. If tunning issues persist, Id check the nut, but that would be another thread lol.

    We are not cruel here at ST, at least we try not to! Happy New Guitar Day (HNGD)!
     
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  10. Guitarmageddon

    Guitarmageddon Dr. Stratster Strat-Talk Supporter

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    Right, but I don't do it that way....I use all 6 backed off a full turn...and 5 springs...

    I was meaning balancing the springs the way he does.....not follow every step in his video....
     
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  11. brians

    brians Senior Stratmaster

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    Thank you guys
     
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  12. Stratoguy

    Stratoguy Strat-Talk Member

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    Many thanks to all! Just a(nother) strange idea. Lubing the bridge where touches the body just behind the 6 screws (vaseline?) could be any help in sliding to correct place? never read of that anywhere...
     
  13. Black Strat Guy

    Black Strat Guy Strat-Talker

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    That's not strange at all, it's just common (mechanical) sense. ;)

    I lube everything on my bridges with white teflon paste, vaseline will work as well. Lube the plate/body contact point, the six screws top contact point with the plate. Use a mix of graphite and liquid vaseline on the string/saddle/plate contact point, and the nut slots and string tree. Heck i even use a bit of lube on the trem arm, it will help it to move more smoothly as well as prevent the premature were of the arm/block threads.

    If the nut slots are binding or a bit tight on the bass strings you can just use the strings themselves as a "file". Just take a bit of the corresponding string and carefully "file" the slot a bit enlarging it's width, it will also burnish the slot nicely. :)
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2018
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  14. Stratoguy

    Stratoguy Strat-Talk Member

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    OK I've resolved the problem. It took me two Dremel sessions but I made it. the problem was that the sustain block was touching the inner edge of the bridge hole near to the six ounting screws: after few bendings the contact between mass and edge made the three screws fixing the mass loose . I've sanded all the bridges cavity (the sides near the block) and rectified the spring cavity as I planned to install a tremsetter (as I did). Surprise: under a thick layer of white coat (base layer?) I've found another color! seems like a bronze (see pictures) and quite shiny too. This was not sufficient and I'd even have to sand the block itself in its upper part to make its way fully free. Heere are some pictures of the two colors sanded cavity.
    Is this normal? somebody changed idea? Do you recognize the "second" color from Fender catalogue?

    Image02.jpg Image01.jpg

    So thank you for all the advice!!
     

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    Last edited: May 7, 2018
  15. Stratoguy

    Stratoguy Strat-Talk Member

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    Anybody?
     
  16. Paperback Rocker

    Paperback Rocker Nitro-mancer Strat-Talk Supporter

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    Start a new thread w ur new question
     
  17. clivewil

    clivewil New Member!

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    is conductive shielding paint by any chance? the colour looks similar. just a guess.
     
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