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Vintage kluson style tuners lock

Discussion in 'Stratocaster Discussion Forum' started by omrikeren, Dec 6, 2013.

  1. omrikeren

    omrikeren Strat-O-Master

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    I heard there was this locking/tying method on the vintage style tuners. Can someone explain? I'm really interested
     
  2. JestersTear1

    JestersTear1 Strat-Talker

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  3. genethomas

    genethomas Strat-Talk Member

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  5. omrikeren

    omrikeren Strat-O-Master

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    No, no. I meant the regular vintage style tuners. But i've heard there was a stringing method on the vintage tuners that involved "locking the string on itself" or something like this. Guessing it's not literally locking.
     
  6. furtherpale

    furtherpale Banned

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    i think they just mean the way to wind the strings on, they poke down the middle about an inch, crimp to wind around..... they are EXTREMELY stable.... i like vintage about 10,000% better than "locking" tuners


    i use the same method as the bottom video (JestersTear1's post above) but give it 3 tuners length
     
  7. JestersTear1

    JestersTear1 Strat-Talker

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    I have Gotoh locking vintage tuners on all my Strats and I tend to lock the string and then wind round the post a couple of times (like with a normal tuner).

    Rock solid!
     
  8. Boris Bubbanov

    Boris Bubbanov Most Honored Senior Member Strat-Talk Supporter

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    The way I prepare the string involves cutting it the right length, then to prep the string with needle nosed pliers. You put two 90 degrees bends into it, one to correspond to the string emerging from the hole into the slot, and a second as the string leaves the slot and begins winding like a spring around the post. Down and down, to a point where the string takes off for the tree or the nut slot. Not only do you not "lock" the string but you take every necessary measure so that the string never overlaps or binds at all. You're basically making a spring by hand, if you think about it.

    I wish I could say this use is widespread, but it seems to elude most players. I love it, never load a split shaft any other way.

    [​IMG]

    Cut the E, A, B and little E about 2 inches long past their posts; cut the D 2.5 inches long and the G 3 inches long. In this way, these 2 strings get a "poor man's string tree". The string leaves the post lower than the other 4.
     
  9. rider7

    rider7 Senior Stratmaster

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    Why did you remove the 2nd string tree?
     
  10. omrikeren

    omrikeren Strat-O-Master

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    Okay! Thank you very much
     
  11. Boris Bubbanov

    Boris Bubbanov Most Honored Senior Member Strat-Talk Supporter

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    It was doing virtually nothing. I felt there was a chance the string was just resonating against the tree, making noise.

    Bear in mind, I've done scores of these with only the one tree; they all delivered the mail. Normally I like to leave trees alone but this one truly wasn't doing much of anything.

    The extra string and the winds down the post are a "poor man's string tree". When you have the job 97% done a second real tree is liable to just get in the way. By comparison as the image I think shows, the B little E tree does do real work.
     

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