Amplified Parts Lollar Pickups

Amplified Parts Lollar Pickups Guitar Pickups

Amplified Parts Lollar Pickups Guitar Pickups

Join Strat-Talk Today

Whammy woes

Discussion in 'Stratocaster Discussion Forum' started by riplead, Mar 8, 2018.

  1. riplead

    riplead Strat-Talk Member

    24
    Jul 26, 2012
    New Jersey
    Hey there Strat people! I'm new to the group but have been playing forever. I have a small guitar collection and a Strat was mandatory. I recently got a '07 American Deluxe from Reverb and can't seem to get the trem to settle down.

    Here's what I've done so far:

    Replaced the bridge plate with a genuine Fender OEM replacement. - I mildly scratched the original one using steel wool to polish it like a fool. I wanted it to look new. I also made sure it was securely fastened to the block.

    Replaced the bridge saddles with GraphTech saddles. - I've had good luck with them in the past. I replaced the saddle screws with shorter ones as they protruded enough to be felt.

    Replaced the nut with GraphTech right to spec. - I checked the string height with a StewMac indicator. (yeah I'm a little ocd with my guitars)

    Tightened the nuts around the locking tuners. - They were surprisingly loose.

    Used 3 springs in the /l\ pattern.

    Snugged up the neck bolts with a long-ass screwdriver.

    Tried replacing the single string tree with a GraphTech tree, Also tried completely bypassing the tree altogether.

    The rear of the bridge plate is floating a little under an eighth of an inch to pull-up to specific notes. The front of the plate is as low as it can go without hitting anything during operation and looks perfectly parallel to the pickguard surface. I also lubed the studs with Nut Sauce before assembling.

    The guitar is tuned down a half step but I can't imagine that being the problem.

    The action is 6/64" @ the 17th fret. The relief is around .010 at 7th fret. I set the intonation with an old Boss TU12H. - I have a strobe tuner built-in to my Kemper amp, but watching those things flying around so much just makes me go bug-eyed, lol.

    I have D'Addario.009's EXL's on it, and stretched them pretty darn good.




    The only things i can think of to help this would be:

    Thread tape around the studs
    Adding another spring

    Somehow the bridge plate is not moving freely - I had a tech once setup a Strat for me and it stayed in tune great. I wish I kept that guitar. He told me he moved the bridge back and forth to find the sweet spot and then adjusted the saddle height. I'm assuming this was done with the strings removed.

    Finally one other thing he did was to solder the string ends. I'm thinking Fender Super Bullets would achieve this effect or better?


    I'm more of an old-school metal/hard rock player guitar kind of guy, but I love Strat tones too. SRV is one of my favs. Mr. Beck too. Jimi was no slouch either! :)


    I know that some of you guys and gals know how to get your Strats to behave while whammying and I'm hoping you have some suggestions.


    Thank you so much in advance!

    Cheers,
    John



    07 American Deluxe.jpg
     
    Tomas83, 79 Strat and Strat-Slinger like this.

  2. Strat-Slinger

    Strat-Slinger Senior Stratmaster

    These vids should help you get it sorted.. when it comes to youtube help... you can't beat Frudua:


     
    Tomas83 likes this.

  3. Seekir

    Seekir Strat-Talker

    Age:
    63
    124
    Mar 11, 2015
    Hilo, Hawaii
    Hard to be sure from the photo, but I've had one strat with a trem plate that didn't quite clear the pickguard. It was rubbing against it, and this was remedied by filing the trem cutout in the PG to clear the trem plate. I use a dowel or something like a round pencil wrapped with sandpaper to address the corners of the cutout. Since you feel the trem isn't moving freely, you may want to consider raising the posts slightly (I think that's a two post trem?) to ensure that it's not actually contacting the top of the body when it rocks. I like to lube the groove in the posts where the "knife edge" cutouts in the trem plate rest in the posts with vaseline. I also lube the back side of the trees and the nut slots with a little dab of vaseline.
     

  4. riplead

    riplead Strat-Talk Member

    24
    Jul 26, 2012
    New Jersey
    Thanks. I checked out one of his videos a while back and he had it set so as long as you dump the bar before you play, it would come back in perfect tune. My thing is though, sometimes you're in a Gilmour state of mind and just shake it a little and might forget to end off with a "downstroke" on the bar. I'll have to see if these are different.
     

  5. Mr. Lumbergh

    Mr. Lumbergh needs you to go ahead and come in on Sunday, too. Strat-Talk Supporter

    Jan 10, 2014
    Initech, Inc.
    Strat Slinger beat me to it. Those Frudua vids are exactly how both of mine are set up.
     

  6. riplead

    riplead Strat-Talk Member

    24
    Jul 26, 2012
    New Jersey
    Sorry, I tried to reply to the first answer about the Frudua links, but it looks like I may have replied to Seekir's post? Obviously I don't use newsgroups much. :)

    I'll double-check the trem plate and maybe jack it up a little. I did lube the posts and bypassed the tree. So can't think of where else to use the Vaseline. (no jokes please)

    Makes me wonder how Ingwie keeps his Strats in tune...
     

  7. qblue

    qblue Senior Stratmaster

    Feb 18, 2009
    Clarks Summit, PA
    I think these videos will help:



    The prior video shows all the stuff you gotta do just to get started, if you don't know anything.

    This is the cherry on top, and shows how to keep strings in tune. It's based on the tension each string has, as each string has it's own tension, which is related to thickness of each string. This method 'equalizes' the tension and detuning is much, much less. It's better than the Frudua method (U-fraud method).

     
    Gitrhack likes this.

  8. The Ballzz

    The Ballzz Senior Stratmaster

    Feb 26, 2014
    LAS VEGAS , NV
    Besides lube in the nut, addressing the area that the arrow in this pic points to is pretty critical, especially on all the wound strings.

    DSC_0010_zpswvuocdkl.jpg

    Sometimes lube here is enough, depending on how smoothly beveled the edge of the string hole in the bridge plate is. An easy way to check this is to use a low E string (with the strings removed, of course) and slide it through the path that an installed string would follow. If you can feel the windings of the string as you slide it (like the teeth of a saw blade), then the wound strings may be getting "caught" on randomly one side of a winding or the other. This is just enough to cause subtle tuning anomalies. Also, if any particular wound sting contacts the edge of the slot in the bridge saddle, that could bind. I use this stuff to bevel/polish the string contact points of the bridge plate and saddle slots and then apply lube.

    http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_an..._Finishing_Papers/Mitchell_Abrasive_Cord.html

    Also, even if the nut is lubed, the slots may be too tight, causing the strings to bind. Check each slot with the gauge string you use for each particular slot.

    The way your strings get wrapped, even on your locking tuners is also important. I can't find Fender's guide, but basically, if you consider the length of the neck to be on the 12:00 and 6:00 points of a clock face, they suggest putting the strings through the pegs starting with the hole in the peg at 5:00/low E string, 4:00/A string, 3:00 D & G strings, 2:00 B string & 1:00 high E string. Pull each string tight-ish, clamp and tune. I follow this and have good luck with it.


    Let Us Know How It Goes,
    Gene
     

  9. heltershelton

    heltershelton ASKED TO LEAVE THE STAGE Strat-Talk Supporter

    Jun 5, 2013
    Not Florida
    im not really sure i understand the problem you are having, but ive found my 2 point trems dont work well when screwed all the way down. i raise them to where the plate is slightly above the pickguard and they work great.
    IMG_20180309_110348.jpg
     
    Keith268, Nate D and 1980 like this.

  10. Mr. Lumbergh

    Mr. Lumbergh needs you to go ahead and come in on Sunday, too. Strat-Talk Supporter

    Jan 10, 2014
    Initech, Inc.
    Disagree completely.
    There is no “method” here, unless you consider him trying to get you to sign up for his class after you try and fail to do it yourself because as I said, there is no system outlined. Angling the claw is completely unnecessary unless you want it binding more at the bridge pivot on the bass side. The thicker strings are thicker only because they have a winding on top, the core still carries 100% of the string tension, and the cores are similar in diameter to the higher three. Meaning, they carry approximately the same tension. You can see this for yourself by googling the D’Addario string tension chart.
    The Frudua method provides good, consistent, reproducible results.
     
    Ebidis and alainvey like this.

  11. qblue

    qblue Senior Stratmaster

    Feb 18, 2009
    Clarks Summit, PA
    And after using the tremolo, out of tune strings.

    Thank you for allowing my point to be proven.
     

  12. Mr. Lumbergh

    Mr. Lumbergh needs you to go ahead and come in on Sunday, too. Strat-Talk Supporter

    Jan 10, 2014
    Initech, Inc.
    You didn’t “prove” anything, and my Strats are easily the most tuning-stable of all my guitars (both set up with the Frudua method).
    Here’s a tension chart from a common D’Addario string set. So please, using small words and visual aids, explain what tension mismatch is “corrected” by angling the claw?
    IMG_2853.JPG
     

  13. heltershelton

    heltershelton ASKED TO LEAVE THE STAGE Strat-Talk Supporter

    Jun 5, 2013
    Not Florida
    I used the frudua method on all my strats as well, and wouldnt you know it, they stay in tune just fine when I use the wiggle stick.
     
    79 Strat and Stratoskater like this.

  14. Mr. Lumbergh

    Mr. Lumbergh needs you to go ahead and come in on Sunday, too. Strat-Talk Supporter

    Jan 10, 2014
    Initech, Inc.
    Crazy, that’s exactly what I noticed, too!
     

  15. TConnelly

    TConnelly Strat-Talk Member

    19
    Mar 9, 2016
    Sandy, Or.
    I haven't seen it mentioned but when you push down on the bar and release do the strings return flat or do they return sharp. You need to check all of them. Because that will determine which end of the guitar to look at. If any return sharp you need to look at the nut slots on those strings first. Good luck!

    Cheers...................Todd
     
    79 Strat likes this.

  16. riplead

    riplead Strat-Talk Member

    24
    Jul 26, 2012
    New Jersey
    Thanks for all your replies. I saw the Carl Verheyen vid a long time ago, and honestly I didn't see how angling the claw would help. I figured that regardless of what side of the claw was adjusted it would apply to the overall tension to the bridge. I don't understand how less or more tension on one side would sway the bridge to compensate for the difference in string pull on the other side.

    I saw the Frudua vid and it's brilliant but it looks like it's meant to help one setup the trem angle to pull up to certain pitches. I've already acheived that by just tweaking the angle manually.

    As I mentioned the nut and saddles were replaced with GraphTech parts. The nut slots have not been modified only the overall nut height by carefully removing stock from the back of the nut. I own a set of nut slotting files, but the slots look plenty wide enough and I don't hear any pinging or anything. I also figured that by using GraphTech for the nut and saddles, lubricating wouldn't be necessary?

    The strings are not wrapped around the locking tuners. Maybe a half-wrap and that's it. I wanted to minimize any friction or hang-ups there. I also made sure the locking knobs on the tuners are tight.

    Currently the string tree is also not in use just to verify that's not adding to this.

    I'm not sure if this occurs more on a pull-up or when I drop the bar. I think it's more when I drop the bar but I have to check more. I'll try raising the bridge plate a little and see if that helps.

    I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again.
     

  17. heltershelton

    heltershelton ASKED TO LEAVE THE STAGE Strat-Talk Supporter

    Jun 5, 2013
    Not Florida
    when i screwed the bridge plate all the way down it was catching on something and wouldnt work right.....raising it fixed the problem. and i would still lube the nut, even if its a graph tech.
     

  18. Mr. Lumbergh

    Mr. Lumbergh needs you to go ahead and come in on Sunday, too. Strat-Talk Supporter

    Jan 10, 2014
    Initech, Inc.
    One of the side effects of this setup though as that, at least in my experience, everything else fell into place, so it was beneficial even not playing with the intervals. If you’re still having trouble, make sure the other parts of the setup are in place as Kelly said.
     

  19. Stratoskater

    Stratoskater Senior Stratmaster

    Age:
    42
    Feb 8, 2011
    Raleigh NC
    Point to be proven? By what everyone else saying they use the Fruda method with great results and Carl is a tool trying to get folks to pay for his class rather than help people? You do realize there is less than 1lb difference between the wound strings added together and the unwound right? Actually it's .74 lbs so why the hell would angling the claw make squat bit of difference?
     
    fezz parka and Mr. Lumbergh like this.

  20. heltershelton

    heltershelton ASKED TO LEAVE THE STAGE Strat-Talk Supporter

    Jun 5, 2013
    Not Florida
    yeah, that doesnt compute as its one continuous peice of metal and pull is pull.