Recent content by Bill Moore

I had the head version FM100H great, clean, pedal steel amp. I did install a long reverb tank though.

I used a Peavey extension cab with a Sheffield with a silver stripe Bandit I had, just sounded fuller/louder. I later built it into a cab and chassis with a Weber Thames, I found I had a little more bass this way.

I've had several Peavey "Special" amps over the years, and I still have an early 80's "Special 112" chassis waiting to go back to work. I re-cabbed the last Special 130 I had, but let it go for a nice Washburn A/E.

I guess that's true, but even with isolated jacks, you would still be shorting the signal! I pick up pre amp ground with the input jacks on my builds, but if lifted you would still need a path.

There's an extra stage in the amps with reverb. Just swap the leads on your jumper, and everything is still in phase.

Looks like some solder on the wire, probably was soldered with the others, just put it back. It may have been disturbed when the 3 wire cord was installed.

I like the look of piping, only tried it once on a speaker cab to match an Epi Valve Jr. head. I knew I had to leave room in the baffle dimensions, but didn't consider needing a deeper setback! Next time!

I've had Fluke for years, and after leaving the power company I was working for, I purchased a Fluke 87 to replace their 77 I had been using. That was 1990! It died a year ago, and was not repairable, so I bought a $35 unit from CE, (Antique Electronic Supply), just never could get used to it...

I'm not familiar with those rectifiers, but I do have a Weber "Copper Cap" in my DR build. I played around with it and a GZ 34, and there is very little difference in voltage. It could be because Weber designed the SS unit to more closely mimic a tube rectifier. https://www.tedweber.com/wz34/

My Music Man RD 100 has "flyback diodes", MR 250/5, when I refurbished it, one was shorted. I ended up using a replacement of 3KV, and it works fine!

You planned better than I did! Next time I'll set the baffle a little farther back.

Here are some I've done! (I only include the VJr cab to show my first attempt at piping, I'm going to use it again when I build my next one!)

I like variety, Black and Tan, Brown and Tan, Red-White-Blue, although the solid color Black, Brown, and Tan ones look good also. I'm about to put my Twin into a head cab, and am thinking solid Red!

While I haven't heard an original 5E3 in a long time, I have built a couple. The first I used parts on hand, a DR PT and OT, and Sprague Mallory caps, and mostly carbon film resistors. I also used a Tube Depot PC board! I did a couple of switchable mods, but generally play it without those. The...

Seems like plenty of room to mount the tube sockets, I think I would use dedicated wiring going back together, and treat it like you would an old Fender. (You could also just use the thing as wired!) I don't think you'll have any problems with the little tank, move it closer to the front. Before...