vonasemj

Spraying makes it easier to get a smooth finish with less sanding and less risk of a sand through. Spraying can also allow for a thinner coat which some people will argue lets the wood resonate more.

If you have it sanded down to bare wood, I would start by applying a lacquer sanding sealer. Before applying anything, wipe the wood down with naphtha. Sanding sealer has higher solids so it will help fill any small pores or imperfections. This can also be applied with a brush or by spraying. If the body is is tight grained wood and not ash or mahogany, you can skip grain filling. Once the sanding sealer is smooth can can use a primer if you would like, but it isn't required. I like to use BIN spray as a primer. It is a white shellac and is compatible with pretty much everything. Once the primer is painted I like to sand out any rough spots before applying color. If you're on a budget, stop by an auto parts store and pick up some duplicolor spray paint. Most stores have lots of colors and it is an acrylic lacquer. I typically use about one large can or a couple of smaller ones for the color coat. Light coats are better, and there isn't a need to sand between coats since the paint will melt into the prior coats. If you use metallic, definitely don't sand between coats or until a few coats of clear have been applied. You will want to apply several coats of clear for a deep shine. I use about 3 cans of gloss clear nitro lacquer that can be picked up at Wal Mart or most hardware/home improvement stores. Remember that the more clear you apply, the less risk you have of a sand through. After the clear has dried (depending on the brand it could take anywhere from a couple days to a few months. It is dry when there is no longer any odor and your finger nail does not leave an impression) you will need to wet sand. I like to use mineral spirits instead of water since mineral spirits does not cause the wood to swell. Start with 800 grit and work your way up to 2000 or higher before proceeding to buff. An electric/pneumatic buffer works much better and quicker than a hand and a rag, but an electric buffer can also melt the clear.

As a note, clear coat is not required for non-metallic colors if you would like to avoid the possibility of the color yellowing over time. If you don't use clear, just apply several more coats of color.

If you want supplies or more instructions check out Reranch.com. They have a great step-by-step guide.

Hey, your own re-paint job is really, really good?! I've just stripped a squier standard strat hand sanded it down and got the whole thing pretty smooth, I've been advised (By someone who doesn't do guitars) to use undercoat primers, then add an oil based gloss, then lacquer, but I notice you say you spray? What would your method be?

Great, thanks!

Is here anything that I can use in place of polishing compound? Can't find anything locally. Will regular polish and elbow grease work or not at all?

The thing that is bothering me most is that I am supposed to clean the area with naptha or ace tone, but won't that remove some of the surrounding finish? Or should I just tooth pick the area with a little bit?

If you don't mind do you have an image of one of your repairs with this technique?

I wish I had some clear lacquer!

Thank you! I get it for the most part. I still need a little help I might post a thread.

Hello, I am taking your advice and going to attempt to drop fill. Can you help tell what I need to do? Do I need clear too? Sand paper? AHHH! :grin: