At that time, "custom color" was anything you paid for that Fender could get or you could supply. Fender's lineup of Custom Colors were standardized later in the 50s.
It's mainly the clear coat that yellows. Here's the poly clear coat on a '97 Fender James Burton Standard. It's lived in a case far more than out of it in a non-smoking home.
https://www.tdpri.com/media/jbs_poly_darkening.39000/
Yep. A stock Bultaco 360 may be heavy, but it won't break. Sometimes you win just by finishing when the light, finicky stuff has stopped after shedding parts all around the track.
Duplicate post, folks. Please feel free to help the OP at...
https://strat-talk.com/threads/replacement-tuning-machines-other-than-the-fender-brand.584500/
Back in the 70s, my jazz buddy changed strings on his ES-175 once every year or so. He had lots of strings that had worn through the windings, constantly.
If you get past their pretty boy new wave façade, The Knack played like a really tight garage band that knew how to write songs that grabbed you. I still think they were a fine band. It's the same principal as The Hooters who had an MTV-ready façade and videos to match, but simply added keys to...
Weber Signature 6:
https://www.tedweber.com/speakers/signature-series/6-models/
Jensen Mod 6-15:
https://tubedepot.com/products/jensen-mod-6-15
Eminence "Custom" 6 1/2":
https://tubedepot.com/products/eminence-custom-6-inch-guitar-speaker-20w-4
It's an Eminence 620H, but with a paper cone...
Looks like a Squier Classic Vibe 60s in Burgundy Mist which is closer to purple than a true Burgundy Mist. The pickups have a "low wind" vintage tone and IMO are quite fine. You will never know how they're supposed to sound until you spend 30-40 minutes with a screwdriver dialing in the heights...
Interesting! I have an 1970 ES-335TDC. Sounds fab through a Tremolux, Deluxe Reverb, SCX2 and a Tech 21 Trademark 60. It's hard to get a bad tone, no matter what the amp.
I bought an Epi Special I with a badly-notched lightning bolt bridge, though I could never tell if it was factory-notched or done by an inept owner. I used a mill file to take the saddle surfaces down to an unnotched state, maintaining the radius of the bridge. That worked much better...