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2006 CS has no markings but I purchased it second hand. My 2022 CS 69 has markings.

Keep the ultra, save your money for a Custom Shop.

It had everything to do with it being pine. Every time I play a pine electric it's always the same, dull and dry, doesn't matter if it's a strat or something else.

Played a CS Pine strat a while ago, nice build, very light, warm and dull sounding.

If you buy a Strat you're going to need a Fender Tone Master Deluxe Reverb and visa versa.

I love 2 and 5, so much so that I'm seriously thinking about a 2 way switch (if possible) so I could switch between the two without anything in between.

Mine's a CZ followed by 6 digits, it's from 2022, a CS 69 reissue. I tried looking up the significance of what CZ means but couldn't find an answer. As you can read from earlier posts (albeit old), most here were wrong.

Tried my Fenders' without them, it just don't play right. This is also why a reverse headstock is a good idea, you need the correct tension for each string.

Ha I've got exactly those two strats, both CS. I'd give you a demo if I could play better. The 61 sounds stratty, it's the classical strat tone, bright, underwound, SRV, love it. The 69 also sounds stratty just not as much, it's hotter, more rock and less SRV. Funny thing is my 52 AV sounds...

If I may, what was the price difference between the two?

Get rid of all of them because the best one won't leave you second guessing. I experienced this with my 60 CS.

From my research and experience, the AV line is the only US line that didn't tint their necks. Here's my 50's AO next to my 52 AV, I know this is a Strat forum but it's in line with what I've seen with Strats and in post #2, also note that the differences are greater in real life:

Wow, there's more to this than meets the eye. The revelation for me was that flat pole pieces means more chatter between string and poles. That's why staggered poles sound brighter, that's what I want from a Strat. The bevel along the poles is important too. This guy explains it better:

I've got marks like that on my 1960 Custom Shop, not as much. The frets look really good, it's a good thing they didn't roll the fret ends (not really, not like some AO's) but the E strings look really close to the edge true to Fender form, how are they to play? Do they slip off?

Pinch method though on the bass strings I like to have them 1 below/two above if I can.

Sometimes it's the strings, you have to let the strings settle and don't use old strings.

I've compared strats with silver sky's, the PRS blew them out the water.

I don't know how that crack could have been repaired, wouldn't you have to break off the whole piece then re-glue?

Did you ask the seller how that happened? This is the sort of thing I love when buying guitars if I can get it for a good price.

Light blue looks great when you relic it down to bare wood, light blue on wood-brown.

It always annoys me that my AO is very gooey, has the stickiest neck I've ever played. That's exactly why I didn't purchase the 50's or the 60's AO when I had the chance (at a hugely discounted price), they sounded like a Pro model, not stratty.

I agree with you but as an aside, I thought that it were the stores that complained about the finish damaging easily?

Judging from pics it's like the AO series hope, I'm wrong. Even if it is full nitro the finish will never be like the original vintage guitars. I like the finish on the AV series, it's thin and smooth. I doubt it will be like that ever.

You haven't had it for long, wait before you do mods to it.

I would get second hand whatever it is. Custom Shop seems the best value ATM, if you can reach out, get a CS. Otherwise go for a Silver Sky.