3rd build. Olympic white, Wenge neck

wooders

Senior Stratmaster
Nov 19, 2021
1,185
Kent
Bit of a chip on the corner of the headstock. Frets not bad but does need a level and dress. Very slight rock on a few frets and one that's noticeably high (17th). Going to take a bit of wire wool to this one to see if the frets are tinted by a clear coat? The solid rosewood had a coat on that I sanded off
 

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wooders

Senior Stratmaster
Nov 19, 2021
1,185
Kent
Few more. Slightest ding at heal.
 

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FrieAsABird

Senior Stratmaster
Mar 18, 2020
3,143
Germany
That neck looks sweet, and the price is pretty good too I think! I guess fretwork is something that often gets skimped on, but if you plan on a level and dress anyway, I think you’ve got a winner :)
 

wooders

Senior Stratmaster
Nov 19, 2021
1,185
Kent
So, yeh, got a coat on it that has tinted the frets. Wire wool on the highest fret and quickly exposed a nice silver colour. Sanded the back of the neck as a test. Then gave it a quick wipe with mineral oil, which darkened it back up again and though the applied finish is actually pretty good, the raw oiled is sexy. Heel is slightly tapered at the bottom to 55mm. Looks like just under 56mm at fretboard. Will need to finish body to see how snug it is/isn't.
 

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wooders

Senior Stratmaster
Nov 19, 2021
1,185
Kent
A pic with it's rosewood sibling
 

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wooders

Senior Stratmaster
Nov 19, 2021
1,185
Kent
Body far from finished but a quick look. Not so sure on PG choice now? Might have rethink, but need to see the finished colour first.
 

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wooders

Senior Stratmaster
Nov 19, 2021
1,185
Kent
This is the paint colour that I chose. Hoping it turns out pretty close to this. Will the lacquer change the colour much?
IMG_20220706_102018.jpg
 

wooders

Senior Stratmaster
Nov 19, 2021
1,185
Kent
It's all going wrong.
Not sure how much is my spraying, how Much is the last can I used and/or how much is primer stage work.
Some advise needed here. There are a couple of runs and dark patches. A couple of divots too.
Last two coats (same can) have been poor. I wet sanded back with 600 wet and dry before this coat.
 

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wooders

Senior Stratmaster
Nov 19, 2021
1,185
Kent
Got myself some fresh paint and set about sanding back with 600 wet after leaving alone for a few days. Weather and humidity has been perfect all weekend. Still a couple of spots that are not quite 100%, but can only see them by scrutinizing under certain light angles.
got 4 very light coats of clear on. Should get a total of 10-12 coats. These are light coats mind.
before lacquer (I flattened before lacquer) I tried the neck. Nice and snug.
got a tortoise Pg coming to see which one I prefer between that and the mint.
 

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Believer7713

The Pink Bunnyman Frankenstein
Silver Member
Dec 27, 2016
16,933
KC
Looking good! I've been away for a few days and didn't see that you had a little trouble but it looks like you're getting it. :thumb:
From what I see it looks like it crazed (wrinkled) from spraying a layer outside of the application window. It's best to wait at least a day of you miss that window so the paint that's on it can gas off. I ran into that problem on one a couple years ago. Made me want to chip the whole thing up and burn it. Glad I didn't though because now it sits proudly displayed in my wife's office.
 

wooders

Senior Stratmaster
Nov 19, 2021
1,185
Kent
Looking good! I've been away for a few days and didn't see that you had a little trouble but it looks like you're getting it. :thumb:
From what I see it looks like it crazed (wrinkled) from spraying a layer outside of the application window. It's best to wait at least a day of you miss that window so the paint that's on it can gas off. I ran into that problem on one a couple years ago. Made me want to chip the whole thing up and burn it. Glad I didn't though because now it sits proudly displayed in my wife's office.
Would you wet sand between lacquer build ups? Can says 20-30 minutes between coats. I figure 3-4 coats per 24hrs, then 3 weeks before flatten/buffing?
All acrylic, same brand.
 

Believer7713

The Pink Bunnyman Frankenstein
Silver Member
Dec 27, 2016
16,933
KC
Would you wet sand between lacquer build ups? Can says 20-30 minutes between coats. I figure 3-4 coats per 24hrs, then 3 weeks before flatten/buffing?
All acrylic, same brand.
If you're going to spray within that window, no, do not sand between coats. Spray 2 to 3 coats then let it set a day. Check the surface for smoothness. If it isn't what you want then wet sand, lightly, at 600 grit until it's close and add another 2 to 3 layers. When you wet sand the clear you will see it float in the water. If it gets hard to see what you are looking at, wipe it off, dip the paper again and continue. Be sure to carefully dry, let it sit a while preferably in the sun and then track cloth before you spray again.
I only wet sand if I need to. If I can get a good smooth surface on the first go, I'll leave it alone. I normally have to sand some dust out though. Also, if I am looking for a perfect glassy finish, I will wet sand the final coat to 5000 grit before buffing and waxing.
Remember stay smooth and consistent in your passes and movements. Watch it build up and lay out as you work. It's a cool process to watch once you start to see it.
 

wooders

Senior Stratmaster
Nov 19, 2021
1,185
Kent
I know at least one who is not in the least bit interested in this project.
Few more lacquer coats this evening. The two horns on the inside still feel a bit rough as does the inner curve on the lower side. The rest feels glossy. Need to pay a bit more attention to angle/distance/following curve on these bits. It's not orange peel looking by any stretch, but not smooth looking.
I've got 8 coats of lacquer in total so far and have about another 4 maybe 5 coats left in the can.
Do I just crack on, or is a bit of flattening required? It feels like it's going well. Lacquer has been getting shinier, coat by coat, but it's only the last coat that has it looking glossy.
 

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Believer7713

The Pink Bunnyman Frankenstein
Silver Member
Dec 27, 2016
16,933
KC
I know at least one who is not in the least bit interested in this project.
Few more lacquer coats this evening. The two horns on the inside still feel a bit rough as does the inner curve on the lower side. The rest feels glossy. Need to pay a bit more attention to angle/distance/following curve on these bits. It's not orange peel looking by any stretch, but not smooth looking.
I've got 8 coats of lacquer in total so far and have about another 4 maybe 5 coats left in the can.
Do I just crack on, or is a bit of flattening required? It feels like it's going well. Lacquer has been getting shinier, coat by coat, but it's only the last coat that has it looking glossy.
WWWWWWWHHHHHHHAAAAAAAATTTTTTTT ARE YOU DOING MAAAAANNNN?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
Hurry and act quickly here. Scoop your dog up and go outside. Perform mouth to mouth and you might just save him.
TSK TSK TSK. Always spray outside or in a WELL VENTILATED area!!!

Ok, now on a serious note...it is looking really good from my vantage point. If you are still getting a bit of a rough feeling in the inside radii you should have enough clear on it that you could probably wet sand it out after day two of clear... that should be 6-ish coats so you should be pretty good. Just go slow and easy. Again, patience is your best friend. As is a cylindrical sanding block. I can't remember if I said this before and am too lazy (TBH) to look back but a piece of 1 inch dowel rod works great here or if you don't have access to one and can cut a piece of a broom handle off that works to... even a finger slide for playing slide guitar would work here too. The idea is that you keep the pressure even across the inside radius. Also, don't sand it all one direction. I like to go at a 30° to 40° angle across the center line of the part in working on for a bit then switch to the opposite direction. This makes a more random cross hatch pattern that is easier to hide with the next spray.
Also, the inside radius areas WILL require the most attention because you physically cannot get a s close or perfectly perpendicular to the surfaces. Rattle cans, by nature, also make these areas more work because you cannot adjust the fan of the spray so there will be over-spray into those areas.
Keep it up brother. After this you will be one of two things... hooked and will want to paint everything in your sight or you will break out into an episode of Post Traumatic Stress Syndrome every time you walk past the paint aisle in either an automotive or home improvement store. 😂😂
The fact that you're sticking it out this far shows that you are either having fun or are just a glutton for punishment...only you can tell the difference. :thumbd::thumbd::thumb::thumb::thumb:
 
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Believer7713

The Pink Bunnyman Frankenstein
Silver Member
Dec 27, 2016
16,933
KC
Also, when you get to your final coat, if you need to sand it to get it smooth, remember to step up your grit by no more than 50%.
This means that if you start with 600 your next grit should be no finer than 1000 (900 is super hard to find) and the next should not be finer than 1500 and so on. I normally use 600, 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000, 5000 then buff by hand using Maguire's Mirror Glaze #2 (or equivalent of you can't get that where you are). You can Buff it by hand, which I recommend, then polish it to a deep shine with your favorite carnuba wax...I prefer cherry scented because it smells good (no other reason).
Also, on each of the sanding stages, use the aforementioned cross hatching pattern and your buffing stage will be much less laborious. The wax stage should be a simple and easy wax job and nothing more.
 

wooders

Senior Stratmaster
Nov 19, 2021
1,185
Kent
Couldn't get on it Tuesday due to weather, but got a few coats on last night. Lightly wet sanded with 600, dried and lacquered. Doesn't look quite as glossy as it did before these coats. It's more of a dull gloss. That is, you don't really see it without lighting angles. Looking good though, I think. Just not sure if I need to apply more lacquer?
 

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wooders

Senior Stratmaster
Nov 19, 2021
1,185
Kent
Also, when you get to your final coat, if you need to sand it to get it smooth, remember to step up your grit by no more than 50%.
This means that if you start with 600 your next grit should be no finer than 1000 (900 is super hard to find) and the next should not be finer than 1500 and so on. I normally use 600, 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000, 5000 then buff by hand using Maguire's Mirror Glaze #2 (or equivalent of you can't get that where you are). You can Buff it by hand, which I recommend, then polish it to a deep shine with your favorite carnuba wax...I prefer cherry scented because it smells good (no other reason).
Also, on each of the sanding stages, use the aforementioned cross hatching pattern and your buffing stage will be much less laborious. The wax stage should be a simple and easy wax job and nothing more.
So I now have 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, 3000, 5000, 7000, 10000 wet n dry.
Another few coats of lacquer first?
 

Believer7713

The Pink Bunnyman Frankenstein
Silver Member
Dec 27, 2016
16,933
KC
So I now have 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, 3000, 5000, 7000, 10000 wet n dry.
Another few coats of lacquer first?
You should only need to spray again if you aren't happy with where you are now. If it looks a little too dull I would probably hit it with the 600 and spray another coat again to wee what it does. Make sure to shake the can well even if it doesn't have a mixing marble in it.

If you are happy with it then have a go at it with the final sanding. The biggest tip that I can give you for the final sand is this...On each grade of sand paper, stop just before you think you are done. If you look at it and think I need to go just a little further then you are at your stopping point. It is better to spend more time with a finer sandpaper than to to too far with the rougher one. I also have never gone finer than 5000 grit...even when I paint car or motorcycle parts. Not saying that it would be a waste of time but I typically get fine results with a glass smooth finish stopping at the 5000 and doing the polishing from there. I also normally will polish both with a buffer and by hand before the waxing.
20211127_174639.jpg 20210531_093409.jpg
 


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