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Discussion in 'Tech-Talk' started by Reno922, Feb 2, 2021.
Unless you have this going on
That could be problematic...
I've read a book or two and several videos about how to get a Strat to consistently play in tune, but I've never seen a more comprehensive approach as yours.
The only additional advice I might suggest is Galeazo Frudua's video which explains how to set up the trem for optimal full-float intonation.
It's an improvement.
Depends on what your FB radius is. it will on a 9.5 to 10 inch possibly on a 12 inch (or so I've heard on the 12").
I love what you did! So many posts present a problem and are answered by a string of solutions of things to try without any type of diagnosis to pinpoint what is causing the problem. Diagnosis is the key, and you nailed it! Bravo!
On tuning issues, i don´t know. Too me it is still a conundrum why one or more strings goes sharp after divebombs (where you have to pull the string to get it back in tune) It is not string binding in the nut, but something else. Could be the break angle behind the nut.
Other than that, on Strats where strings go from nut to tuning pegs, the G-String is the longest string not under a string tree usually, thus its the longest with least break angle. This string tends to "sing" harmonics playing open string. If the nut is cut too much in an angle, vibration transfers easily trough the nut if the string has little surface to rest on. It will not have sufficient "meat" to isolate vibration transferring trough the nut.
never had tuning problems with Gibson type guitars. But i always had hardtail and no trem on those guitars.
What about using a brass nut?
Great job troubleshooting !! You would make a much better dirt bike carburetor tuner than I. Even though I know better, I'm always changing two or three things when I have it off, rather than one at a time (just pure laziness) and so I never quite completely diagnose the problem.
Nut was my first suspicion. I can't believe a qualified guitar tech would not be able to fix it.
These are all well known things. I find your experts wanting to say the least.
Here's a detail often missed!
And this is especially critical for the wound strings. Some bridge plates are nicely beveled and smoothed at the string through holes, while others have a fairly sharp edge that causes the winding of the string to end up on one side or the other of that sharp edge. The trick here is to use one way or another or multiples of beveling and smoothing the string path over the plate, if there is contact. I use a burr similar to this,
chucked into a handle for hand held use, then smooth/polish the contact point with abrasive cord. Following that, I put a dab of lube at that contact point every time I change the strings. And this brings us to the other fact that the more strings become used, any bend in the string at any contact point becomes more work hardened at that witness point, from string bending, tuning changes, trem use, etc. and even when it gets tuned, it tends to want to go back to its work hardened point. I've done time studies to determine that no matter the brand or money spent on strings, I get 8 to 10 actual hours of playing time on a set of strings, before they start to exhibit tuning anomalies! The most expensive and highly touted strings "may" extend that time by an hour or so, over the cheapest strings. This is why I buy my own custom chosen gauge string sets in bulk from juststrings.com for what works out to about $3.00 per set! At that price, I don't need to have tuning issues from trying to milk extra life out of toasted strings!
Of Course, YMMV
Popular mod in the 70s, but brass is soft and the string windings will form divots that cause it to stick.
I thought it was common knowledge, especially among luthiers and even techs.
This. On Gibson style headstocks, all the strings have to go through a compound bend at the nut, but the D and G go through sharper angles. The string has to straighten and re-bend in two directions to slide through the nut. And the G is generally less flexible than the D string (which generally has a core thinner than the G string).
Fender's straight through the nut is superior IMO to Gibson's compound bend, although the requirement for string trees is a bit clunky.
+1 Taking individual strings out of the equation is a really good idea!
someone said bell brass was hard so wouldnt be subject to the grinding effect of the wound strings any more than other materials.