After-market saddles that are SHORTER front-to-back? My bridge is mounted too far forward...

Discussion in 'Tech-Talk' started by Overthere, Sep 20, 2021.

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  1. Overthere

    Overthere Strat-Talker

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    Yes. Both are the same.

    I removed the pickguard so I can see what's happening more clearly. As stated in other threads, it appears I have to move the neck 3/16" away from the body (bridge pocket cut too long, toward the bridge). I bought a standard Strat pickguard, and when I set it in place it's too long from the neck heel to the bridge. I expected that. I also notice that it overlaps the bridge plate by 3/16" so that seems to corroborate the need to slip the neck 3/16".

    The "standard" blue pickguard does not fit in multiple ways, and I'm new to this, so I'm not sure if the body is out of spec or the pickguard is. The pickguard was sourced from a small Ebay seller, but on the other hand, clearly the body's neck pocket (or saddle) is off, so who knows...
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2021
  2. rmackowsky

    rmackowsky Strat-Talker

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    Returning mine tomorrow exchange. Not expecting the next one to be any better but can’t hurt to try.
     
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  3. Overthere

    Overthere Strat-Talker

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    Thanks a LOT, @Dreamdancer. I appreciate the straight talk, and I will replace the original nut with a TUSQ PQ-5042-00. I already pulled the nut, and the slot is nicely cut, but too deep for the TUSQ nut. Will have to shim it a lot.

    HA! First thing I bought was a set of Fender Locking Tuners with staggered height posts (3 tall, 3 short). We're on the same wave length. =]

    I enjoy reading your comments. =D I hate the Fender whammy bar attachment, so I'll probably look elsewhere, but I take your point.

    Just like you, I think 1) locking tuners, 2) TUSQ nut, and 3) a decent, working trem bridge are what I need at first.

    I think the Gotoh VS100N is exactly what I'm looking for, but the possibility of those 2-point inserts weakening the wood worries me. And trying to fit a "standard" Strat pickguard is exposing more problems, like the neck and bridge pickups might not fit between the neck and bridge short end walls of the pickup route (it's one big 'swimming pool' cavity routed for a bridge humbucker, resulting in minimum wood between bridge pup and trem cavity). IF I have room to add a 1/4" hardwood strip to the back wall (next to the trem cavity) I'll try the VS100N.

    Thanks for taking time to discuss this with me.
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2021
  4. Overthere

    Overthere Strat-Talker

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    If I could offer you a bit of advice:

    If you like the one you have, and are willing to slip the neck, don't bother exchanging it. I set up the RMA to return my first one (that's given me so much trouble) but I was reluctant because it's a decent (inexpensive) guitar in most respects. Neck is excellent, and the full-depth body's beautiful except for the non-spec dimension issues. FWIW, I think the neck pocket on EVERY Indio Cali Classic is wrong, just like mine.

    I ordered TWO more on sale ($80ea) during my 30-day return window for #1, and confirmed with the TechSupp/CustServ rep that I could return the worst of the three on that RMA. So I checked all three for the intonation problem. All are the same. I'm sure the bodies are shaped by a CNC process, and the blasted programmed dimensions are OFF for the neck pocket. SUX, and will continue to SUK until somebody there sorts it out. I wrote to them at their corporate offices, but never heard a word...

    The point is, the one I returned (my #3) had problems, and the one you get in exchange might have problems, too. Number 3 had a noticable, deep pock mark in the paint, right in the middle of the big lower-bout slope that accommodates your right arm. The maple fretboard grain was weird and kinda pronounced for maple, and worst of all, the truss rod nut was totally stripped.

    So IF you like the one you have, and IF you're up for all the shyte I'm going through, keep the one you have. Frankly, now that fitting the standard pickguard is turning up more problems, I wish I'd never bought this/these guitar(s). I'll make it work, but the 'opportunity cost' is worse than expected.
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2021
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  5. Overthere

    Overthere Strat-Talker

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    Great. Now, if you tell me Jeff Beck plays a Monoprice Indio Cali Classic, I'll know I'm on the right track! =D

    Thanks for the encouraging information.
     
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  6. Dreamdancer

    Dreamdancer Senior Stratmaster

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    The downside for these types of guitars is that there is nothing "standard" about them.If you wanna fit anything there is gonna be a lot of DIY and especially measuring.For example you can buy a strat pickguard but its almost certain that it wont fit,you ll need to file it,put extra holes in your guitar etc etc etc.You can always use the original guard or use it as a template to cut yourself a new one that ll fit perfect but thats the nature of the game with these guitars.

    Same with the bridge you want.Measure the string spacing on the original guitar bridge....more often than not those things are narrow on those asian imports, around 10.5mm and the bridge you want as i see its 10.8 mm you might not be able to keep the strings falling off the fingerboard...so measure everything carefully first and dont get anything for granted.
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2021
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  7. PCollen

    PCollen Senior Stratmaster Silver Member

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    This may be helpful:

    Callaham Trem Spacing Chart.JPG
     
  8. nutball73

    nutball73 Senior Stratmaster

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    Completely agree. I once bought a Harley Benton Tele to use as the basis for a partscaster (the whole guitar was cheaper than buying a painted body). However every dimension was incompatible with standard or 3rd party Fender parts - neck joint, bridge, scratchpad, control plate, everything..

    Buy something like this and basically you have two choices - play it, or send it back. Trying to mod it is a waste of good playing time.
     
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  9. Dreamdancer

    Dreamdancer Senior Stratmaster

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    You said it best..."the whole guitar was cheaper than buying a painted body" or as i say it " the whole guitar is cheaper than a pro paintjob"...its basically worthless to anyone else except for the hardcore DIYers that want a challenge(and iam one of them) cause they can just buy a squier bullet without paying that much more and its compatible with a lot of third party parts without butchering it.
     
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  10. rmackowsky

    rmackowsky Strat-Talker

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    Thanks for that - convinced me to just keep it and use it for a future project. $80 for a finished body and good quality neck is atill a good deal.
     
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  11. Overthere

    Overthere Strat-Talker

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    Too bad for me. One to the things I really like about the generic Strat is that it's a modular platform for modification. But if standard parts don't fit, that cancels the advantage.

    Spent a lot of time last night filing various edges to make it fit, but thanks to your suggestion, I'll use the original as a template, and trace it onto my second pickguard before filing. Or maybe I'll use the one I modded last night as the template...

    You're right. My current bridge is 10.5mm string-to-string, 52.5mm overall. Member @Thrup'ny Bit, pointed out in another of my threads that all three Strat bridge sting spacings are intended to work with one standard Strat neck.

    That sounds like trouble, so I double checked, and Google indicates that ALL Strat neck pockets and neck blocks are 2-3/16" wide. A 54mm bridge moves the strings outward only .75mm each (1/32"). I've looked at it in experiments here and it looks like it won't be a problem, and others confirm that it has not been a problem for them.

    But that doesn't mean it won't be a problem
    ...so thanks for the warning.
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2021
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  12. Overthere

    Overthere Strat-Talker

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    Thanks, PCollen. I've seen that before, but it's good to study it again now, because more information keeps coming in, and that changes how I see it and what it means to me.
     
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  13. Overthere

    Overthere Strat-Talker

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    Have you checked the intonation on yours? I would like to know if yours is the same as mine. If so:

    If you take off the saddle springs and file/sand 1/16" off the back of the low-E saddle (and maybe the A, too) you can get close to proper intonation. Close enough for live music, but not good enough for recording (sez I).
     
  14. Thrup'ny Bit

    Thrup'ny Bit Grand Master Curmudgeon

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    2 1/16" (52mm) on left, 2 7/32" (56mm) on right.



    spacing.png
     
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  15. Lovnmesomestrat

    Lovnmesomestrat Senior Stratmaster

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    Man I LOVE this list!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I actually take screen shots of some of the stuff that gets posted on here and put in a file for future use.

    LMSS
     
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  16. Thrup'ny Bit

    Thrup'ny Bit Grand Master Curmudgeon

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    They're my Classic Player 50s and ST54.
     
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  17. Lovnmesomestrat

    Lovnmesomestrat Senior Stratmaster

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    They are BEAUTIES my friend!

    LMSS
     
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  18. Overthere

    Overthere Strat-Talker

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    VERY helpful. I agree with @Lovnmesomestrat.

    That 56mm on the right looks impossible (for me) to play. I'd be dragging that hi-e over the edge constantly. I'm trying to re-imagine 54mm now... I like a wider nut and wider string spacing at the bridge (acoustic 2-1/4") and I hate E or e strings that fall over the edge.

    Of course, I don't play anywhere near the 22nd fret, and nearness to the edge lessens toward the nut, but thanks to this example I'll cogitate a while longer and will hold off on buying a 54mm bridge until I'm sure.

    Sure?
    Yeah, right... =]
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2021
  19. rmackowsky

    rmackowsky Strat-Talker

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    Mine won't intonate either. I haven't tried taking the springs off yet. I also noticed that the gap between the pickguard and the bridge is a bit uneven, so either the pickguard is crooked or the bridge. Do all of yours have the same appearance?

    IMG_0852.jpg
     
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  20. Overthere

    Overthere Strat-Talker

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    I have just two now. They look the same. Maybe a 1/16" gap (even, not tilted) between pickguard and bridge plate.

    Consider returning, not exchanging. Why? You bought this on sale, right? I think maybe they run a sale to dump all their remaining "questionable specimens." Recall that my #3 had cosmetic issues and a stripped truss rod nut.

    You know about the "worldwide supply chain interruptions" where hundreds (maybe thousands) of Chinese cargo ships can't even enter our ports in California. Monoprice says they expect new stock in mid-October but who knows when those ships will actually be unloaded. Those guitars are sitting in metal shipping containers, some in the hot sun, for as long as it takes. And who knows whether Chinese production is on schedule these days. They're having serious problems over there. So you could be waiting a looong time for the replacement, and its condition will be a crap shoot.

    You (and I) saved only $20 per guitar by buying them on sale, and trust me, the learning curve is costing me 20 times that. I haven't done anything "permanent" to either guitar, and I still have about three weeks in which to return them. I may keep them; if I do it's mostly because the alternative is to spend hundreds that I can't justify at this time.

    ONE MORE THING: I heard no reply when I spelled out the problem to Monoprice. Maybe they're making the necessary change "behind the scenes" and later production will intonate correctly. 'Might be a good idea to wait and see...
     
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