Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Amp Input - Normal or Bright' started by Kayden33, Jul 10, 2019.
Put it back together and play it.
Well this is a lot to respond to but oh ok.
I never once said I didn’t understand why it happened, I clearly understand why it did. **** I came on here clearly to ask if there was anything I could do to clean it up and fix the chipping - something I’m afraid you didn’t read my op.
I never said anything about hating first world problems but simply stated it’s a saying that gets used far to often even by those guilty of it themselves in every day situations including yourself because we’re all guilty of it. Am I not to come here to ask for advice? That’s what makes this a great place is information, knowledge and help.
You say “to any of us who work on amplifiers”,,, well I’ve done a lot of basics on amplifiers but I guess you never bothered to know or believe what I do for a living correct? Well I restore complete from the ground and up 18th Century and early 19th Century pianos. You didn’t not provide any information that I didn’t already know. So,,,,,,,,
I never said I wasn’t happy with my amp or with PRS - obviously didn’t read my op. I simply asked if someone knew a way to fix it.
So why would I return the amp?
I’ve had the amp for a little over a year, returning to store not possible - duh
Why would I not be happy with the amp?
Why would I not be happy with PRS?
<<<<<———— These things you said above, wow lol. Assumptions? Lol
And again as clearly as everyone can read - I simply asked if there was something I could do to fix it. I never once said I had distaste for PRS, never once said I didn’t understand why it happened, never said I just got the amp which would allow me to return it to the store and so on.
Finished it, let it sit till I get the head cabinet back. Left paint off the mounting holes because there is copper attached to the cabinet for grounding.
I think it looks clean and came out great.
You did ask for advice and got just that, folks are friendly here and like to help. That's the thing about reading written words vs talking to someone in person, one could perceive a negative "tone" in their writings when in reality they're just being nice and, as mentioned before, giving helpful advice that was asked of them.
Looks nice. Hope it turns out good with the new tolex. When you get it put back together, record a little snippet with the craziest gain it will do, and the clean sound. I'm interested maybe in one with the lower wattage. Thanks.
I’ll definitely do
This one is the 100 watt which can be dropped to 50 watt. They also sale a 50 watt which can be dropped down to 25 watts I believe. I went with the 100 watt for the huge amount of clean headroom. I’ve tested the head at high volumes, to loud for most gigs and unable to get breakup lol, which is good if you want maximum clean headroom. If I drop it to 50 watts I can get some slight slight break. But the cleans are beautiful like Fender beautiful cleans and the drive is like a Mesa and Bogner had a baby and named it Archon lol.
I’ll drop some clips soon when I get everything back together
Like I said...
I read your OP, and every response inline, then simply provided you with the facts and a generic response as to how a manufacturer would reply. How you take it is entirely your interpretation and not mine.
You also stated you have a 5 year warranty, yet you did not report whether or not you enquired to the manufacturer as to what is covered by it, or engaged in a discussion with them, nor did you report any response from the manufacturer regarding your original issues.
Seems rather odd - one year into owning an amp with a 5 year warranty... especially given that you sent the cab away to mojotone...
Then someone says "first world problems" and you get on your high horse, you went on to complain about the cost and the quality being less than you expected for your spend. hypocrite? well I'm asking you if you can understand why someone else would say exactly that, because it's exactly the same undertone I was seeing.
Nonetheless I provided you with straight fact and a detached pragmatic view of what would occur if you made enquiries about remedying the situation.
Then I threw you the same bone someone else did previously and you raced off with it between your teeth. Champion. Congratulations.
now after the fact and with a somewhat bitter pill tossed your way by more than a few responses... you say you have worked on amplifiers.... in which case I would suggest that you wouldn't have bothered to raise the issue here in the first instance, because it is so prevalent in amps, that even minimal exposure and experience with a few amps would reveal this to be a common issue.
Can it be fixed? yes, but why would you bother, when you can be sure it will repeat next time you take the tray out.
If you want an in depth explanation of why it occurs, just look at the screws, the contact area for the tray mount and the tolex and cab. It should be self-explanatory given that you "restore antique pianos" for a living... which again, gives further rise to why you're asking the question in the first instance with your vast knowledge of joinery, finishing and damaging properties of vibration and friction.
and yet you still had/have the opportunity to enquire with the manufacturer about your 1 year old amp, to have the issues rectified under warranty. That is what a warranty is for and you do have rights as a consumer... but you never mentioned any communication.
Instead you stated you sent it to mojotone for recovering, which is fine - but again you didn't state that it was being performed under warranty or if you were shelling out.
Missing logic? oh yes. lots.
warranty cover? check
response from manufacturer? ------
engage a repair facility for tolex? check
pay for the repair out of own pocket? check
does it matter? no.
what does matter is when you imply that product quality is less than satisfactory, when you have a valid warranty and make no indication of your attempt to utilize it and have the issue attended to without cost to you.
context? yep. plenty of it from everyone here regarding their responses inline. just nothing substantial from you to indicate that you're actually doing anything other than having a whinge about the fact you sent it away for tolex and you painted the chassis because you had a concern about the spread of paint chip...
both issues covered by a 5 year warranty, (questionable if PRS would honour it? that is an unknown) and repairable by a plethora of licensed warranty repair agents across the good ol US of A. and you elected to undertake it yourself, rather than use your warranty.
DILLIGAF? no. nothing to see here, move along.
but it's also great for you to have pointed out to other members here that you've wasted money on what would ostensibly be a warranty repair.
and yes, it still looks like you're having a whinge.
Thanks man. I'm also considering the Tremonti 15 watt head. My next head is going to be back up, mainly for my granddaughter to rock out through. She's four years old and can play 2nd fret power chords on her mini. I just had to send back the Orange head I just got last week today. Pot failure, or solder failure. The Tremonti 15 may be the next one I try. I already have a Mesa MK V 25, which I can run down to 10 watts. I just wish that good amps could be found for less money. That Orange I sent back was a one trick pony, and the qualitynwasnt very good. I almost went with the PRS to begin with, and now wish that I would have.
Sent ya back a PM
Awesome to hear the granddaughter is into playing
What you maybe don't grasp here is that where you have screw tension torquing 2 surfaces together and holding them tight is always an area where you get paint having issue.........either with adhesion to whatever it has been forcably brought into contact with, or possible chipping/cracking due to the somewhat uneven surfaces involved.
This surface is not to be seen, and moreover it is a surface that, in the normal life of an amp never should be taken apart by the owner. I mean how many times would any amp maker expect a chassis to be removed from a head or combo???
I think it looks great.
My guess is that when it was originally assembled, everything was still pretty fresh (including the paint).
So after the chassis was tightened in to the cab, the paint adhered to the tolex.
If you give it sufficient time to "cure" before reinstalling it into the cab, i don't think this problem will happen again.
Good luck with the amp.
It's a nice one.
Nice job !!! Agree with rockinrollrich, wait as long as you can stand it before bolting that baby back in. Since your cab is away for a while, you won't be as tempted to reassemble right away. As you're job entails dealing with minutiae restoring pianos, I'm sure you already know this. But while I might or might not do what you did, it would bother me on a $2,000 amp.
And for what it is worth, while I love my PRS guitar, my one experience with their customer service kind of pissed me off. I'll give them that I didn't discover the defect (a 30-cent fix, by the way) for 10 years. Easier to just do it yourself sometimes.
It's likely from the heat inside causing it to stick to the cabinet or as was stated it was still tacky when assembled. It will likely happen again if you remove it. That would have never bothered me (the tearing tolex would have though) and I would not have taken the time to paint it but I would have sent the thing back to PRS for the tearing tolex and used that 5 year warranty.
If he sells to me, he'd better expect that I'll open it up many times.
Word !! Never had an amp I haven't disassembled as far as I can without a soldering iron, just on principle and curiosity.
The OP came here to ask a question about a paint repair that he's doing himself. Nothing more. Why anyone here felt the need to share their opinions regarding warranty work or an other issue I don't understand. If you're not capable of staying on the topic of the original post then perhaps you should pass this thread by without responding. Clear enough? Good.
Every time I change power tubes in my combo, i have to pull the chassis to get to the bias pot.
Not to hijack the thread, but....
I have a tolex seem that is starting to peel back.
What type of glue will work on it?
Any decent contact cement. Either the old solvent based type or water based.