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Discussion in 'Tech-Talk' started by Mikeylefty, Sep 17, 2021.
. . . . or do I have to buy a "blender" pot? I want to try this mod on a strat, SSS.
Yes. That's what I do. Works fine.
This article has some cool info. You do need a purpose made blender pot from what I remember, but my mod was done by a tech so I forget. I think its like a no load pot but made for blender mods. Stew Mac, Reverb, etc will have them all day long.
thanks, I just found this link on this forum about the subject as well
A regular pot works fine.
What they market as a blender pot is a no-load pot. But that's all marketing hooey.
I also have a 500k pot and wondering if that might be preferable for the blender than the 250k?
Either will do, although you'll get more reaction from a 500k pot, by which I mean turning the knob x degrees will have more effect on a 500k pot than a 250k pot.
If you're wiring a strat with one master volume, one master tone, and a blender, wire the volume and tone between the output from the switch and the output jack Telecaster style.
You can then use the spare side if the 5-way blade switch to wire in the blender so it only works in P1 and P2 and self disconnects in P3 and P4. That also prevents you creating a loop back through the blender where the bridge becomes active in P4 and P5.
Thanks, just downloaded a diagram from the Fralin website and will give it ago with the 250k pot.
What you have will work fine. This is the blender I use (Armstrong Blender... SSS blends to HSH).
Thanks for sending that. I think Im going to try the Armstrong mod.
Strat neck and bridge pickups together is pretty special sounding!
You could use a regular 250k no load pot. The no load in theory is cutting out completely the blend when you it's full open. frankly speaking I think this makes a 0.01% difference versus a regular 250k normal pot.
I have this mod in my American standard 2012, which happened to have no load pots by the way. I modified the circuit so that the blender only works in position 1 and 2, while it's always excluded in the others. Here I was noodling with it....
I've tried this mod, with a normal 250k pot, and then converting it to no-load. It works OK either way, but the final natural sparkle of a simple single-coil is only restored when the pot cuts out. Definitely a small but audible difference. It's not really that there is anything still mixing in from the neck, it's more about a bit of extra load on the bridge.
A 500k would help this if not no-load. But the taper of a 250k is better for the blending because all the real blending action happens in the first few k, and a 250k spreads this across the first half turn. Then the last bit of difference happens in the second half and as it goes to no-load.
But I'll add another just personal opinion:
I think the N + B sound is good and worth having. But I didnt find anything very interesting as a mix through the range of blending. So for me, I'd prefer to get this sound through a switched connection.
Sounds very good. I just want to make sure i can still get the strat regular wiring position 2 sound.
This is all three on.
This is the bridge only.
You might hear a slight difference when played alone without a band, but in context it'll sound just likes Strat should.
Yes you can of course
You know you can always wire the blender through a push-pull (or push-push) so it cuts out completely when you don't want it.
Just connect either the "in" wire to the pot to the push-pull switch, then connect a jumper to the pot terminal below.
My take on the blender circuit.
The blender only works in P-1 and P-2. It doesn't work in P-3, isn't needed in P-4 anyway, and P-5 is the neck only to begin with.
A normal pot works fine, but I like having the blender completely out of the circuit when not in use.
A no load pot works, but it's backwards for this function: you increase the blend by turning DOWN the blend control, which I find completely counterintuitive.
Therefore, I make my own 'reverse no load pot' by scraping off some of the trace inside the pot.