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Discussion in 'DIY Strat Forum' started by BluesDontCare, Sep 25, 2016.
I'd use wood ...
You could cut the slab into the proper shape with a jigsaw, though if I had access to a band saw that would be my preference. Of course a router and belt sander will be needed to achieve the final shape.
It could all be done with hand tools of course, it would just take longer.
Indeed, the main traditional hand-tools would be a coping saw and a spokeshave.
I have seen unincredible things folks have done with just a chisel and hammer.
I'd use a sawzall
With a pruning blade.
Problem with a jigsaw is, the blade tends to bow side to side when cutting thicker pieces of wood. Especially with a longer blade. The cut can be uneven top to bottom. Try cutting a curve on a 2x4, and you will see what I mean. Yes it can be done. Will you end up dong a lot of sanding straightening out the cuts? Yes.
Sure. However, one issue I had was the blade bending. Here's what I mean. When cutting out a 1 3/4" mahogany body, I followed the lines just fine on the top. Where the blade is closest to the shoe and has great support it was fine. However, the blade bent inward toward the tip where there is no real blade support, so that it was about 1/8" off of the outline on the back. The effect was that after sanding the body to the line on a spindle sander, it had what an only be described as slight belly contours on both sides. Neither is noticeable from the front, but they're clearly weird.
I hope that makes sense. I did some experimenting after and had CAthe same issue with both cheap and expensive jig saws. The thicker the piece of wood, the more prone this is to happen. It could be that I have bad technique, but it happens mostly when sawing curves (where there is torque on the blade). My take away is to use a band saw whenever possible, since there is support for the blade on both sides of the workpiece. I save the jigsaw for things like pickup or control cavities on templates where I can't use a band saw and the wood is much thinner (causing less blade bending under torque).
Do you have access to a drum sander? That can straighten out the edges.
I did the sawzall and hand belt sander before and didn't like the results. It will make a guitar-shaped object but you won't be as satisfied. So you'll build a second one. Then a third. Each better than the last but not as good as the next one.
I've done the jigsaw thing a few times, and it works, but the edge-finishing becomes more time consuming. I ended up buying a fairly expensive jigsaw that has a guide wheel behind the blade which limits the amount of blade-bowing you'll get. A an orbital drum sander table is a great way to true up the edges when you're done. Good luck!
Is there an echo in here?
No problem for me.
The answer is YES...
If you use a good professional jigsaw with a guide-wheel and speed control, plus good quality clean cut blades its a doddle.
Yes the blade will wander if the blade teeth/edge has dulled, but the main reason that happens is the operator pushing the saw faster than the blade will cut. Allow the blade to dictate the speed of cut.
I don't speak from ignorance. I've done literally thousands of hours cutting hardwoods with a jigsaw (mainly teak/iroko) and if you've a sharp blade with a quality saw you'll get a square cut...
Mapleglo a strat-talker on here used a jig saw on her project here's a link she's got some cool pics and is quite the woodworker
I cut out all the bodies on my builds with a jig saw.
I do have a spindle sander however, which cleans up those cuts quite nicely.
Yes...i have cut straight lines and went as close as i could with a hand saw(so jigsaw ll do for sure) and then used the file with the blue handle you see in the pic that has one flat and one curved side to bring me to the line.Time consuming but the result is very good.
As long as the electric drill of motor are bolted to a bench, or something similar that won't move, you could probably get good results with one of these; https://www.restexpress.co.uk/acata...ing_Kit.html?gclid=CILq2Ka4rc8CFakK0wod1-0L3Q
Ideally, mount the drill or motor vertically, so you can have the guitar body on a flat bed, to keep the angle of the drum at a right angle to the work. (I think I've just described a bench drill... )