Can I spray lacquer straight over this?

Discussion in 'DIY Strat Forum' started by s5tuart, Mar 31, 2021.

  1. s5tuart

    s5tuart Perfecting time travel since 2525

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    9FDC8095-4D44-47AE-9FB8-AB142308BA07.jpeg 1558C4E1-EE80-4C4A-8E2B-80B6A1315E7E.jpeg :(:(:(

    I've taken the neck off to get better access to the top frets and find that the body recess has been attacked by a woodpecker!!!
    Consequently I've admitted defeat and told my friend he can have it. He is much more skilled at wood stuff than me and will be able to rout it out flat the fit a suitable shim.
    My tool kit of a bread knife and a hammer won't cope with that so I've taken the opportunity to make someone very happy!
    Thanks everyone for the advice and the encouragement. I really appreciate all your replies and will be on the lookout for another project or maybe a completely new build. Maybe, just maybe. :D
    Now to de-gunk the Laney to see what's what. :D
     
  2. Thrup'ny Bit

    Thrup'ny Bit Grand Master Curmudgeon

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    I think you may have used too much talc after you showered it Stu...


    That's not dry rot is it?
     
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  3. Mr Jagsquire

    Mr Jagsquire Strat-Talker

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    I know there is debate over what is 'proper' nitro, but less than 30 years ago I was using it to respray cars and it's still available on eBay and other places for cars in larger quantities. In small quantities, you can buy 250mL tins for spraying, or aersol cans if you must from NorthWestGuitars in the UK.

    I used their tinted clear to refinish the neck on my Esquire project and a Fender Champ clone Tweed cab. Also recently used some of their 'Les Paul Gold Top' for a little project at home. The neck came out really well, no need to wet sand (not recommended anyway if it gets in the holes or past the frets). Just buffed to a shine:

    Back of neck.jpg

    EDIT: I lightly keyed the fingerboard side, which is poly (it's a MIM Fender neck) and sprayed over that with the tinted clear nitro too. It was done a year ago and I've played it pretty much every day since and no issues with the nitro lifting:

    Esquire & Champ 2.jpg
     
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  4. s5tuart

    s5tuart Perfecting time travel since 2525

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    It's wood dust mate. I wonder if the body is made from compressed paper and glue. :eek: ( it may actually be basswood. It's not ply.
    I have every reason to believe it came from the factory like that because nothing has been done to it that I can see.
    Any way, it's way over my pay grade and I've made someone very happy by gifting it to them. :D
     
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  5. s5tuart

    s5tuart Perfecting time travel since 2525

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    Nice! I'll pass that on to the new owner :thumb:
     
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  6. Thrup'ny Bit

    Thrup'ny Bit Grand Master Curmudgeon

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    Yes, I knew all that, but the point I was making is that it's not readily available at local shops here like it is in the US.
     
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  7. Mr Jagsquire

    Mr Jagsquire Strat-Talker

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    Sure, you can't buy it in B&Q, but plenty of on line places and local paint factors too (though you can only buy cellulose if it's for restoring classic cars, or some such restriction). I'd say ordering on line is pretty much 'readily available' though, so I guess we're splitting hairs: It sounded like you meant we couldn't buy it in this country the way you wrote it, that's all.

    For the OP/OP's friend: Manchester Guitar Tech and Rothko & Frost sell it too. Bigger colour choice from those places, but I've only used North West Guitars myself.
     
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  8. Thrup'ny Bit

    Thrup'ny Bit Grand Master Curmudgeon

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    I was writing for the benefit of the Americans that don't realise that things are different here. Yes, we can get it, but can't just nip down to the local hardware shop (if we could even find one of those and it was open).
     
  9. Fenderbaum

    Fenderbaum Strat-Talker

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    Yes. But you should use higher than 1200 on the last coat. Hairline scratches from 1200 would even be visible after you have buffed it. Some would wet sand it. I think i went a little too rough on the last coat before i buffed it. It didn´t turn out super glossy without hairline marks from sanding it. But it was okay with me. Its my own neck, it functions as good as a factory finish. And you only see sanding marks when up close only :)

    You can go more than 5 coats. More coats gives it longer life before you wear trough. All up to you if you want a thin layer and faster wear for that "worn look" or more coats for longer wear. But not too much. It will feel like poly in the end i guess.



    First time always gives you knowledge for a better job next time.
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2021
  10. nutball73

    nutball73 Senior Stratmaster

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    Sorry @s5tuart Stu I was late to the thread. I recommend two products that I use all the time, very reliably, and readily available in B&Q.

    1. Colron French polish. It's a shellac based polish that adds a tint, and can act as a neutral base for a final finish (so you don't have to worry about nitro/poly etc. It dries in about a minute, so you can work fast and add layers to get the tint you want (or merge in bare bits).

    2. Colron Finishing Oil. This is the top coat - it's a barely tinted wipe-on varnish that just adds a shine (after 5 or 6 applications). I think the directions say leave an hour between coats - YMMV depending on how warm it is. Leave the final coat 24 hours before sanding and polishing.

    The big advantage of these two is that they are available everywhere and don't smell too much, so you can do it indoors. Also they are easy to sand off if you get into trouble.

    Have fun!
     
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  11. s5tuart

    s5tuart Perfecting time travel since 2525

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    Thanks Graham. I'll let the new owner know but he probably has it sussed by now
     
  12. Rickenbacker1953

    Rickenbacker1953 Strat-Talk Member

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    NOOOOO It applies ok Butt Stinks for several weeks . Plus it blushes