Cost of repainting a strat body?

Discussion in 'Stratocaster Discussion Forum' started by Blank, Jul 20, 2021.

  1. Blank

    Blank Strat-Talk Member

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    Haha! I like the look as it is right now (or I will once it's polished up - hopefully), but you're right!
     
  2. Intune

    Intune Senior Stratmaster

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    Well you’ll know if it’s a poly base coat once you start to polish. If that wood polishes up fairly quickly you’ll know it’s a poly coat. Not that I’m a nitro cork sniffer type but it’s just good to know for your situation. Your original plan was a brush on lacquer or shellac. Well that’s tough to achieve with the poly coat still covering the body. It’s not easy stuff to fully remove without serious effort, time and patience.
     
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  3. Blank

    Blank Strat-Talk Member

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    Got it! It did polish up fairly quickly, so I think it's possible it does have a poly coat! I guess in a way that's a good thing in this case as I wouldn't have to worry about sealing the wood! I was actually thinking I'll do a bit of shellac over the area, but I may not need to!
     
  4. Intune

    Intune Senior Stratmaster

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    Yeah exactly. If it is indeed poly then at least you have a really hard surface to scuff up and get another finish to stick too.

    Also if you send it out to say MJT they will charge more to remove the poly. So it’s good to know I guess.
     
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  5. joesatch

    joesatch Strat-Talker

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    i will buy the body as is for $200
     
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  6. StratUp

    StratUp Senior Stratmaster

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    See my earlier comment... but there is the consideration that black shows the slightest imperfections. Maybe that's the concern if they can't do the whole surface.


    Instead of a road sticker, how about some custom painting? You could have an artist so something creative for a lot less money than painting the whole body. Or do something paint oriented like a bright color. I don't think orange flames are quite the look you want... but something equally aggressive might be nice.
     
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  7. Blank

    Blank Strat-Talk Member

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    Thanks, but I like the look now so going to keep it. Also, there are no other replacement bodies available online now.
     
  8. Blank

    Blank Strat-Talk Member

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    That is a good idea! So many options for the future! What kinds of paint would go on polyurethane sealer (if it's indeed covering the bare wood) and nitrocellulose lacquer the same?
     
  9. Ratylird

    Ratylird Strat-Talk Member Vendor Member

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    Where are you based?

    What colour do you want?
     
  10. StratUp

    StratUp Senior Stratmaster

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    It's going to have to be something petroleum based to have a chance at sticking. Not much sticks to poly. I'm surprised that Fender would use it as a sealer as it doesn't really play well with others. But, they are the experts.
     
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  11. Intune

    Intune Senior Stratmaster

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    That’s why I asked several times about being a poly base coat. Is it? One member @StratMike10 says it is for a fact not polyurethane but a sealer and then nitro. I’d find out for sure what “sealer” it is so you know what’s going to stick to it. I mean fender sprayed nitro over it so it’s probably safe to assume you can too. It’s just you don’t want it polished for paint to stick. Rough it up with 320 grit and then start spraying.
     
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  12. Blank

    Blank Strat-Talk Member

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    I think I'm just going to leave it as is. I honestly can't tell if there is a coating at this point post-sanding. Everything is flush and smooth. As I go up on the grit, it will be even harder to tell. If I see wood discolouration or damage, I will do a coat of dewaxed shellac, which sticks to almost everything. I have an acoustic guitar with French polish and it's a wonderful finish.
     
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  13. StratMike10

    StratMike10 Dr. Stratster Gold Supporting Member

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    The reason I mentioned that I knew for a fact it is nitro, is because I stripped my EJ body (also damaged finish) expecting a poly basecoat like I had seen before on the couple AVRI bodies I stripped with Acetone, however on the EJ the Acetone stripped it bare to the wood. I was able to give the wood a stain and a clearcoat afterwards.

    [​IMG]
     
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  14. Blank

    Blank Strat-Talk Member

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    Here's the finished guitar. Thank you all for the encouraging words. I can't believe it got from where it was two days ago to this. I didn't even have to disassemble it, so didn't reverse hours of work I put into setting it up just right.

    I even like the current look. It looks like a submarine, and the borders have a bit of a fade, which makes it less stark. Also, with the whole guitar with maple fingerboard, it's almost a symmetrical look.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2021
  15. StratMike10

    StratMike10 Dr. Stratster Gold Supporting Member

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    You did a fantastic polish job, and in some strange way, that looks very cool...
     
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  16. Blank

    Blank Strat-Talk Member

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    Thank you! It did take a fair amount of elbow grease!
     
  17. jackietreehorn

    jackietreehorn Strat-Talk Member

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    OP - I saw your post on an oil finish - here is my thought - do it. Here is why: the cost of repainting isn’t going to be too far off from a new body, so worst case scenario you just buy a new body.

    However the most likely scenario is you learn someone and have fun doing it. Disassembling a guitar is easy if you can use a screwdriver, especially a strat. Unscrew the bridge, pickguard and neck and everything should just pop off the body.

    Stripping is a pain, but, plenty of you tube videos. I’ve done truoil finish on necks before. It was very easy and I was very happy with the result. I just had to rub it on with a towel, dry, rub with steelwool, rub with cloth.

    you can do it. Then you’ll have something that’s your own.

    For reassembly… you can try it or just bring it in to the shop. It will probably need a setup anyway.
     
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  18. J4ME5

    J4ME5 Strat-O-Master

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    I think you've done a great job OP – and I bet if you sent THESE pictures to the luthiers they would give you a different answer!

    Somebody PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong – I'm serious here, I don't REALLY know what I'm talking about – so I am VERY happy to be corrected – but... SURELY this is now an easy repair job for a skilled luthier to repair? SURELY?? I dare say the OP could repair it himself!? But for a skilled luthier!? Is this not a matter of masking off the guitar, leaving the damaged area and the area around the damaged area free – and spraying black nitro over this area, repeating as necessary, for as long as necessary – then sanding / blending and polishing up!?

    Am I missing something!? Am I oversimplifying things?
     
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  19. surfnturf

    surfnturf Strat-Talker

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    Translation: We don't want to spend our time for a $100 job. We'll be glad to do the whole thing for $x00 ;-)

    Looks pretty good like that, Blank! It's unique, and you've got a story to tell, lol.

    edit: Reminds me of Australia for some reason, lol
     
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  20. Blank

    Blank Strat-Talk Member

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    Haha, thank you! Looks a bit like a submarine (with the little periscope on the left top and rudder and propeller on the right) if I squint my eyes.

    I'm definitely happy with it all said and done, and I'm going to keep it like this! You're right that it is now quite unique, and has a story - not only of my mistake, but also of this incredible online community of people who encouraged me to tackle the repair on my own to get it to look like this.

    I also really like this guitar and wasn't ever planning on selling it anyway, so I'm not worried about the resale value. It's my only electric guitar next to many acoustics, and I've set it up to mimic the feel of the acoustics in the higher frets and right hand (fingerpicking) with a perfect 2-1/4" bridge string spacing!
     
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2021
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