One thing I've learned about the guitar world is that it's not scientifically rigorous. If somethings got mojo, it's got mojo - a sufficient amount has been stated. So the very fact that the complicated Floyd Rose tremolo system exists doesn't tell me that such an elaborate setup is necessarily required. I don't know much about how that product came into existence, I just know that someone makes money selling them now. Having messed with Strat trems for a long time and not wanting to suffer a Floyd Rose setup, I've given a lot of thought to were the weak points are with tuning stability, and all said and done, I feel that the nut is the only place where a significant problem can occur, and it's also the one spot where problems are most likely to occur. To point #1, that the nut is where problems can occur, there is a fair amount of guitar string on the back side of the nut, between the nut and the tuning posts, which means there's a large potential for hysteresis, where tension is shifted from one side of the nut to the other during a dive bomb, but that tension doesn't return to what it was when the tremolo arm is let up, and so the change in tension on either side of the nut results in a new pitch than what you started with. In Joe Walsh's famous youtube video, he talks about pulling on the strings when tuning them, that's intended to address that same hysteresis. The way to reduce the problem is to reduce friction at the nut, through any number of means. But the Floyd Rose, and a lot of other post 50's hardware, such as the two post trem and the anti-knife edge design are intended to deal with tuning stability also. But what's the point? Even with the classic six screw knife edge bridge, I don't see potential for the bridge to start out in one position before the dive bomb, and end up in another afterwards, such that the tension would be different before and after. Another solution at the bridge end is graphite saddles, but the strings merely rock over the top of the saddles, they don't slide along the tops of the saddle, as happens at the nut (or as would happen with a Bigsby trem and a non-roller bridge). I don't think it's even possible to dive bomb a trem to a point where the strings are so loose that they come to rest at a different location along a flat topped saddle. Besides that, a lot of modern Strat saddles are channeled, so that the string can't shift left or right anyhow. Another bunch of solutions that are sold involve the tuning posts, but personally I've never had tuning troubles with any tuners, not Klusens, nor the cheapos that come on $100 gutiars. The gearing appears to be such that the tuner is immobile. For example, when you pull on the guitar strings really hard, the gutiar string breaks long before the tuning key ever moves even slightly, on tuning heads of any price point. I believe that the reason reissue Strats and lower priced models with vintage style hardware are still such a hot seller to this day, is because the machine tuners and two point trem of the modern higher priced Strats don't bring much if any benefit to the table. To point #2, that the bridge should be a place where problems occur, one real problem I've dealt with forever is that almost all new electrics these days seem to come with light "9 gauge" strings, that the nuts are lazily cut as a straight down slot sized specifically for the nines. I do a little test, I pull up in the string just to see if it will easily lift away from the slot it sits in, and often times the strings hang up in the slot, especially the wound strings, and often with the stock strings the guitar came with. It seems very obvious to me that there will be hysteresis issues if the guitars string is sticking in the slot when I try lifting it out. It's incredible that so many guitars you take out of the box brand new, essentially have defective nut slots, even for the strings they're cut for. If you bump up to 10's or 11's, the problem gets that much worse. But once you identify that the nut slots are cut badly, it's not easy to remedy. For one thing, a set of purpose files costs like $90 (btw none of these Amazon links are upsell links, it just happens to be where I shop online) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQJOVRU/?tag=strattalk05-20 , and for another, if you're not careful, you will cut the slot too deep and the string will buzz on the first fret and that action will feel strange. I own a set of nut files, and my current process is to only file at an angle so that the slot doesnt get any deeper. You can also mark the slot with a graphite pencil so that if you nick it, you can tell, and the graphite itself is a perfect nut lubricant anyway. The dust created by filing at the edges probably works as a decent lubricant for the plain strings, at least. Once the string doesn't hang up in the slot, I consider the job done. But it's an expensive tool and it's a slightly tricky operation. It's also good to slightly file away the back edge of the nut, to create a softer break angle for the string. So the Floyd Rose system comes with a whole nastly bridge assembly, but I think it's really the locking nut or the rolling nut that comes with them, that does 99% of work. Even though the nut might be the major source of the problem, I think guitarists really like bone nuts, and the locking heck nut of the Floyd Rose is seen as a major inconvenience, and the rolling nut https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KZEB8/?tag=strattalk05-20 is diffucult to add after the fact for a number of reasons, 1) the nut slot might have to be cut wider, 2) the radius might be wrong, 3) the width of the roller nut has to match that of the neck. Some of the other aftermarket roller nuts would require you to put holes in the head stock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZDFP6LS/?tag=strattalk05-20 IMO, a well cut nut with a lubricant is probably sufficient in lieu or locking or roller nuts. I trust nicer bone / fake bone ones more than the really crappy plastic nuts of Squiers, but I think either works well if set up to prevent string hysteresis. BTW, I see "Big Bend's Nut Sauce" promoted often, and it's a logical fix if a person believes that friction at the nut is the major issue, but I've heard, and it looks to my eye, like it's nothing more than teflon grease, which you can get in larger quanities for a lot cheaper, and without having to buy "nut sauce" and still live with yourself https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002L5UL92/?tag=strattalk05-20 This one in particular has a fine point tip that is perfect for lubriating nut slots. You can also buy the graphite powder that's often used for pinewood derby cars, or just use a pencil. Sometimes I'll use both of them together. Enough to last ten lifetimes of each costs less than $20.