first try at own setup

I would use a radius block before the frets are fitted, but not afterwards. The radius of the top of the frets is not the same as the fretboard.

 

Moving between any of the common gauges 8-9-10-11 will not require any changes to the nut unless the nut was custom cut specifically for light strings.

 

You are doing a good job and getting there. Take a look at your saddles and make sure they are all straight and butted up against each other. I see some space between a couple of them. The tuners have nothing to do with intonation, the tuners tune the open string to pitch. Intonation means that the open string when in tune is also in tune at the 12th fret or the octave if you will. This is what the saddle adjustment is for.
Edit: once you get your saddles lined up let's take a look at your pickup height before you go ahead and do the intonation. They look a tad high to me. This can pull on the strings magnetically and throw off intonation and also produce some unwanted harmonics when amplified. Get a screw driver and just as a starting point to eliminate any problems adjust the pickups down until you can just feel it with your fingernails (above the pick guard) on both sides, then make it a little higher on the treble side. Then do your intonation. Then we can talk about pickup height. OK?

 

It's probably 6 to 8 thousandths. It depends on the guitar, but I try to get the neck almost flat unstrung, and let the strings pull a tiny bit of relief into the neck. I agree with others that suggest the numbers are really a starting point, or a sanity check if things aren't going well ... but setting up a guitar is a very personal thing. The way you like your action. How much string buzz you think is normal. No substitute for just trial and error, finding out what you like on a particular instrument. Your numbers aren't far off or anything. Just keep at it. You will figure out what you like.

I live near the coast, so it's humid. But a couple times per year we ger off-shore airflow that is really dry. Even my Fenders need to be set up a couple times per year. The lower your action, the more often you will need to adjust it.

 

You are well on your way. As much as specs matter, it has to be what works and feels right to you. Get the intonation set and you will be in business.

 

Boy i sure wish I could do my own set ups besides changing string I’ve tried to do intonation and not sure i can get that tight

 

You can. Watch some youtube videos on it, some of them are very good, some are not. And then you can ask people here for advice.

 

As far as the pickups are concerned they just look a little high to me. Using the top of the screwdriver as a reference just lower each side like a mm. Its a subjective thing in how it sounds to your ear. You can see in the picks that the treble side is higher so just lower each side the same amount of turns. As far as the saddles, if you are looking at the bridge all of the saddles are in a row against one another and straight. This is what gives you your string spacing. In other words if both E saddles are straight and you were to put your fingers on the outside of the E saddles and push in towards each other so all six saddles are tight together.

 

Why you place capo on first fret? You should tune action without capo. Refer to this for a perfect setup: https://support.fender.com/hc/en-us...-do-I-set-up-my-Stratocaster-guitar-properly-

 

The capo part if you are referring to my post was for checking the neck relief.

 

This will take less of each and ignore the conformists' wailing.
Assuming no twisted neck or proud frets and a properly cut nut, with the guitar tuned to playing pitch, begin by setting the saddle height for frets 17-21(2) so that the strings play buzz free at the lowest possible height. (Lower the saddle until it buzzes, raise until clear.) When all strings are clean go to the lower frets and neck relief. Play the strings from fret 1 to fret 16, increasing relief (loosening trussrod) to relieve buzz or decreasing relief(tightening trussrod) to lower the string height, so tighten, by fractional turns, until it buzzes and back off until it doesn't. Once you have acceptable relief, i.e. no buzz and easy action, set your intonation and you're done.
This is the opposite order of Fender's setup directions. It is based on performance and not measurements, hence, I don't take any. It works because the neck is immobile between frets 17 and 22. The trussrod only affects lower frets. By setting the upper end first, you know any buzzes are coming from too little relief. This method works for most guitars, with trussrods

 

Your welcome. As far as the intonation goes really close is fine. You did well, now enjoy your guitar.

 

I believe that the second and third clips are "typical"Strat open string sound. The purpose of a good setup is to make all the strings playable and clear of fret buzz open or fretted.
It sounds like you're getting there. Try my method and let me know how you like it. On my MiM standard if I capo the first fret and finger the twelfth there is a barely perceptible relief. I'd be surprised if it's even .003" (.05mm)

 

Watch a video or two next time, the visual might help you out. I just patiently walked you through your first setup and your asking what is the starting point for a setup?

 

What is it that you didn't get right? Maybe if you post up a new thread or you can pm me if you like we can walk you through it. If I can do it anyone can!

 

Howdy mate sound good but gonna wait till I get my épi les Paul because i don’t want to mess my strat up cause I don’t want to be stuck without a Functional guitar as I practice everyday like a religion so if I had another guitar then I wouldn’t mind taking the time to learn to set up my strat