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Help Identifying Possible Missing Part & Other Questions(Fuzz factory Kit)

Discussion in 'DIY Effects Forum' started by Raiders757, Jul 29, 2017.

  1. Raiders757

    Raiders757 Senior Stratmaster

    Age:
    47
    Sep 2, 2016
    Virginia
    WARNING: Long winded pedal building N00B thread.

    I bought myself a Fuzz Factory clone kit a while back in order to try my hand at pedal building. Figured a kit would be the best way to get my feet wet. Sadly the hot summer kept me out of my shed and life got in the way so I haven't gotten around to messing with it until now. Well, other than painting the enclosure.

    Anyhow, I finally decided to move the operation inside and start building the thing. I laid out all the parts in order to familiarize myself with where they will be going and in what order I wanted to do it. Well wouldn't you know it, a part is missing. From the pic in the destruction manual, it looks like a bi-polar or film cap, but I can't be sure.

    ...looks like it has the code 104J100 printed on top, but it's hard to make out (fuzzy pic). It's located right in the center of the rectangular circuit board and it's position is marked with 0.1

    In this process I also noticed that I had an extra round electrolytic cap (I believe I have that right). the manual only shows three of these caps. On the circuit board, the three spots provided for these caps are 100uf, 22uf, and 47uf. The caps themselves are 10uf, 22uf, 47uf, and 100uf. Is it possible that the 10uf cap is my missing part?

    Next on the agenda. I have been offered an option within the manual. I have three transistor positions. Germ 1, Germ 2, and a place for a regular black (round on one side, flat on the other) transistor. I was given an extra socket for this position if I wish to experiment and was also given high gain germanium transistor. My question, is if I go this route, will the pedal still work if I decide to leave the socket empty and only go with germ 1 and germ 2?

    Now I have the fun of decoding the color bands on the six resistors contained within the kit. Oh the joy. I have a second fuzz kit to build that was at least kind enough to label them for me. Sadly it came with nothing more than a diagram to guess from as directions.

    Sorry for the long winded post and thanks for any help I may receive.
     

  2. Raiders757

    Raiders757 Senior Stratmaster

    Age:
    47
    Sep 2, 2016
    Virginia
    ...and now my dilemma grows. four of the six resistors match what I need.

    a) I have a spot for a 470R and I have a tan 4 band resistor (rest are blue) that checks in at 47k. Possibly even 46k, as it's hard to tell the color of the second band. Can I use this resistor in the aforementioned space?

    b) I have a resistor that goes in a spot for the LED (RLED). The only one left for this spot is either a 21G or an 11G. Once again, the second band is hard to make out, even under a magnifying glass with a bright led light. Seems I have to use this one here. Any advice?

    Hope somebody has some answers for me, or at leat a link. I have been scouring the net watching videos and learning all I can (even got the free download of the Wampler #2 Book), but I still need a little nudge in the right direction.
     

  3. Robins

    Robins Dr. von Loudster Strat-Talk Supporter

    Dec 22, 2010
    Germany
    470R means 470Ω.
    There´s no way you can use a 47kΩ in that spot.
    A schematic and the layout would really be a good idea at this point.
    Thanks in advance.

    All the best,
    Robin
     

  4. Raiders757

    Raiders757 Senior Stratmaster

    Age:
    47
    Sep 2, 2016
    Virginia

    Thanks for the response. Sadly this kit didn't come with any schematics. Just some half baked instructions with some pics. I should have taken a pic of the board, but I already started putting it together. I just said "screw it" and put the four known resistors in and used the process of elimination for the other two. Figured I would just put it all together and see what happens and chalk it up to a learning experience.

    Took a pic, all be it not a very good one of the circuit board as I have it right now. The two resistors in question are the tan one (47K if I am correct) and the one in the RLED position. The middle rectangular spot with 0.1 is the other part in question, as it's either missing, or the 10uf cap I was given is to be put in it's place. Like I said, I am a N00B at this. I can build the guts of a guitar, but this stuff is on a micro level for me.


    EDIT: Didn't notice the ceramic cap is 10uf (for the circular spot next to the missing part in question), so I was given a ceramic 10uf cap and a round/tubular electrolytic 10uf cap

    20170729_115134[1].jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2017

  5. Mr. Lumbergh

    Mr. Lumbergh needs you to go ahead and come in on Sunday, too. Strat-Talk Supporter

    Jan 10, 2014
    Initech, Inc.
    The circles with the hash marks on one side will always be electrolytic caps specifically, with the negative leg facing the hash marks. Because they're so big and stand off the board, it's best to but those in later. Electrolytics are seldom, if ever, used in the signal path. I'd like to see what else is going in here, can you post a pic of the trace side?
    The RLED will be a red LED for power-on indication, the resistor there isn't in the right place. I can't tell easily what the value is that you have in there. What's the color of the band closest the RLED label? It looks like brown-black-black-green-blue which would make it 10,000K .025% tolerance. The tan resistor, if I'm interpreting the colors correctly, is yellow-purple-orange-gold, which would be 47K 5% tolerance.
    The rectangle in the center is most likely for a film capacitor, though without taking a look at the destructions I can't really be sure. They can look like what you'd have in your guitar, or like a small yellow or blue brick with leads on one side.
    Did you have to install the sockets? My guess would be that the 2N3904 transistor is to be permanently soldered in place because it's called out specifically, and the Germ 1 & 2 are socketed so you can play with different transistors in those locations. Without seeing a picture of the traces on the back of the board I can't tell you if it'll work without one of the transistors in place.
    Do you have a meter? If you don't, you need one if you're gonna be pedal building. ;) Resistor codes are especially hard to read sometimes because the colors often look like a couple different things, or if the printing is offset incorrectly and the color codes are possible in each direction, it helps to double-check that you've read it correctly.
     
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  6. Mr. Lumbergh

    Mr. Lumbergh needs you to go ahead and come in on Sunday, too. Strat-Talk Supporter

    Jan 10, 2014
    Initech, Inc.
    Here's a chart for reading resistor codes. It's always handy to have nearby:
    IMG_1851.JPG
     
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  7. Raiders757

    Raiders757 Senior Stratmaster

    Age:
    47
    Sep 2, 2016
    Virginia
    Thanks for your help.

    I was using this one.

    http://www.eeweb.com/toolbox/5-band-resistor-calculator

    It's pretty awesome, but I think it would be best that if I continue with this part of my musical journey, that I should have the chart memorized.

    I took my rear end up to a local privately owned Radio Shack (that is not a Radio Shack if that makes any sense) that is old school (not a glorified cell phone store). They had the missing cap I needed. The guys that work in there aren't your typical employees. Showed the old dude the "destructions" and the number of the cap I needed and knew right away what it was. The man is a nerd from the good ol' days. Kind of a throw back for a lack of a better term.

    It's either Red, Brown, Black, Grey, and Blue (or Brown in place of the Red) with the Red(or Brown) end closest to the RLED label. RLED side goes to the LED negative side. The other end goes to the five pin female header that plugs into the foot switch.

    Yes, Sockets for all three. There is an option to install a socket in place of the 2N3904 transistor in order to experiment with three germanium transistors, so I installed it. I am assuming that I can still put he stock 2N3904 transistor in the socket if needed, or was this not a good idea?

    Agreed about the resistor codes. It was hard to tell some of the colors, even under a magnifying glass and decent light.

    I do have a meter handy at all times. Using it in this sort of situation might take a bit of a learning curve though.

    Thanks again for your help.
     

  8. Mr. Lumbergh

    Mr. Lumbergh needs you to go ahead and come in on Sunday, too. Strat-Talk Supporter

    Jan 10, 2014
    Initech, Inc.
    I wouldn't worry about memorizing the chart; it'll come to you after a time anyhow, at least on those values that are commonly used in effects. It's good that are still some Radio Schlocks that have components; these days I wind up just ordering from Mouser because most of what's in my neighborhood RS is cell phones and drones.
    Are you sure about the gray on the 4th band? Gray doesn't have a multiplier assigned to it and is never used there. The beginning is 210 though, and 210K does make sense as a current limiter for an LED.
    I don't there's anything at all wrong with the sockets for all three transistors if they gave you enough socket in the kit; it won't hurt a thing and will let you experiment, which is never a bad thing.
     
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  9. Raiders757

    Raiders757 Senior Stratmaster

    Age:
    47
    Sep 2, 2016
    Virginia
    I'll have to go back and look. the bands were so hard to read in some cases. I am having fun regardless if this thing works or not. I've been taking my time jamming on ym guitar, and making a few connection etc.

    Thanks again for the advice/help.

    Honestly, even though I know how to solder, I haven't done so much of it on such a small level before, so I question some of my connections. It's far easier to solder pups and pots etc...
     

  10. Mr. Lumbergh

    Mr. Lumbergh needs you to go ahead and come in on Sunday, too. Strat-Talk Supporter

    Jan 10, 2014
    Initech, Inc.
    Practice, and take your time. It'll come.
     
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  11. Robins

    Robins Dr. von Loudster Strat-Talk Supporter

    Dec 22, 2010
    Germany
    You absolutely need a multimeter. Period.
    It is essential.
    Just buy the cheapest one - a few bucks and you are set.
    You can use it to measure the resistors. You can use for most of the other parts as well (caps aren´t that simple but there are ways).
    It is most helpful for later finding errors and esp. for bad/broken parts.
    Just get an inexpensive multimeter - even those are good enough for that kind of things these days.

    All the best,
    Robin
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2017
    Raiders757 likes this.

  12. Stormy Monday

    Stormy Monday Fa-ra-ra-ra-raaa, ra ra ra raa! Strat-Talk Supporter

    Jan 19, 2011
    red barn, USA
    you still have Radio Shacks? Wow!
     
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  13. Raiders757

    Raiders757 Senior Stratmaster

    Age:
    47
    Sep 2, 2016
    Virginia
    I have one , but I will have to do some research on how to use it with resistors and such. I mainly use it to set the bias of my tube amp.

    Just the one that I know of, but it's not really a Radio Shack per say. It's owned by a local electronics shop that uses the Radio Shack name. It's some sort of odd franchise deal that they have with them.

    That's pretty much what this weekend was about. This was a practice project

    Anyhow, it's finished, but needs some trouble shooting. It's more of a transparent fizz pedal instead of a fuzz pedal. It powers up, sound travels through it, but there is very little fuzz effect at all, so something is not right. Here's a few pics.

    001.jpg 002.jpg 003.jpg
     
    Robins likes this.

  14. Robins

    Robins Dr. von Loudster Strat-Talk Supporter

    Dec 22, 2010
    Germany
    Congrats! it just needs some attention but nothing big. I am pretty sure it is a wrong component in a special place like a wrong resistor. Just double and tripple check the values and I am pretty sure you will find the error in a short time.
    If not, remove the pcb and take some very good and detailed pics and post them here and the schematics from 3pdt (if you don´t feel comfortable doing that here just send them via PM, thanks).

    All the best,
    Robin
     
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  15. Mr. Lumbergh

    Mr. Lumbergh needs you to go ahead and come in on Sunday, too. Strat-Talk Supporter

    Jan 10, 2014
    Initech, Inc.
    Not anymore, as I found out yesterday... It's one of the twists in yesterday's posts on the Gretsch thread.
     
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  16. Stormy Monday

    Stormy Monday Fa-ra-ra-ra-raaa, ra ra ra raa! Strat-Talk Supporter

    Jan 19, 2011
    red barn, USA
    I wondering when proverbial fork was stuck in it and it was done.
     

  17. Raiders757

    Raiders757 Senior Stratmaster

    Age:
    47
    Sep 2, 2016
    Virginia

    Thanks. I'll be pulling out the meter this week and see what I find out. If I can't figure it out, I'll post some more pics.

    On a side note, I have another fuzz pedal kit and this one is going to be a lot of fun to figure out. The only instructions is a black and white print out/drawing of the PCB layout. I am going to be left to pretty much guess where everything goes. Rest assured, I will be back in here asking for more help with that one. You can bet on it. At least this kit has the resistors labeled for me.
     
    Robins likes this.

  18. Raiders757

    Raiders757 Senior Stratmaster

    Age:
    47
    Sep 2, 2016
    Virginia
    @Robins I had put this pedal on the back burner for a while, but finally got back around to it. Seems I may have reversed a couple of resistors. I put a 47K resistor in the 470 spot, and the 470 in the 47k position. Not sure that it matters, but the 47K is a four band resistor while all the others are five band. (In the pic above, these would be the tan and blue resistors in between the two transistors.)
     

  19. Robins

    Robins Dr. von Loudster Strat-Talk Supporter

    Dec 22, 2010
    Germany
    The number of bands is about tolerance mostly.
    But sometimes it is just a different kind of type or even maker.
    Exchange those resistors and I am pretty sure it will work like it should.
    Maybe some touch up is needed to make it noise free but just make sure it works right and then maybe it needs some more attention. But it should work straight then.

    All the best,
    Robin
     
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