chas3rd
Strat-Talker
You wanted a new on anyway!!
I fried my TS9. Help!
- Thread starter dbb541
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the dark sailor
Senior Stratmaster
If you switch out the diode, which i believe and a few others have mentioned is the problem, i had the same issue also with a MS-10, easy fix. Just be sure to put it in the correct direction. Take a pic of the OG before pulling it out of the circuit.
LedZepconcertvet
Strat-Talker
Sounds fatal
OK, now you guys have done it! I recently rediscovered my trusty old (early '70s) TS9 and started enjoying its specific tone flavors. And then it quit respecting its 9 volt input. I tried a few other wall warts but none of them worked either. I opened it up and investigated replacing the jack. Well, if I had one I could try replacing it, but I don't have one of those in my garage and I'm not sure how to find one. If anyone does know how to source one, please let me know.
But I did find this thread and that gave me a workaround. I ordered one last night from Sweetwater as a belated Fathers Day gift to myself!
But I did find this thread and that gave me a workaround. I ordered one last night from Sweetwater as a belated Fathers Day gift to myself!
Matopotato
Strat-Talker
And it is not "just" a cable to the jack that is off? In my humble experience those components usually endure while cables and solderings are more prone to disrespect the wall warts...
Ymmv
duzie
Most Honored Senior Member
An early 70’s TS-9 ?
I thought that series of pedals started in ‘81.
Matopotato
Strat-Talker
That diode in shot #4 to the left of the plug looks odd to me. I don't have any TS though. The pcb has a drawing for it to go straight "parallel" with the jack/plug. And it looks kind of short imho.
Again I wouldn't know, although many posted that the protective diode could have blown.
Again I wouldn't know, although many posted that the protective diode could have blown.
Matopotato
Strat-Talker
Compare with this picture, here it seems full length and seems to go in according to pcb drawing.
Did anything loose rattle around inside before opening it?
Green Craig
Senior Stratmaster
Every machine is a smoke machine if you operate it wrong enough.Once you let the smoke out there's no getting it back in.
You got it. The protection diode is what you saw. It’s actually busted in two… smoke, crackle, pop !
Thank you for taking the time to edit the picture and offering to mail me one. I looked on ebay and bought 10 of them for $3.45 delivered.
FrieAsABird
Senior Stratmaster
I think it’s awesome that it seems to be fixable! Hope you’ll have great results once the part arrives 
Matopotato
Strat-Talker
Not sure you should buy, unless you have already but solder wick (narrow copper braid with flux) or solder pump helps getting the old holes cleaned out. I wouldn't invest for a one-time fix perhaps. (Unless you develop a wish to join the diyers) If hard to find or borrow then patience and don't overheat are your best friends in cleaning up. I've ruined a pcb by too much heat for too long and hard pulls (=impatience).
Wow, I pay mine 6 cents each
Seriously, I could have mailed you 5, in a standard envelop for free... but now that you ordered...
So, there will be a few steps into swapping this. I think you had mentioned you had soldering experience on guitar wiring, but not PCB experience. That's fine, it's not more complicated, but needs a few different step to be sure you get it right.
1- De-solder the existing one and clean up the through hole connection points. Best way to do this is with de-soldering wick and a solder pump. You should end up with the 2 holes clears of solder and the ability to run the new diode legs right through.
2- Bend the diode at the right width and insert in the through holes. You want it to remain close to the board and will need to turn the board around to perform the soldering. I use blue tack gum, just apply a bit to keep the diode in place. You can also bend the leg lightly on the other side of the board, the V created by the legs will keep it in place.
3- Apply solder, put your iron on the PCB pad and apply the solder. With an iron in the 700F range, that should be made in 3 to 4 seconds max. More heat than that may damage the diode. Once in place cut the remaining of the legs, just up to the solder. Don't cut in the solder, you should have a little pick of the leg coming out of it.
4- Once in place, using a DMM, set to continuity and check you have continuity between the sleeve of the power input to both side of the diode. If all good you also want to check the you have continuity between the diode and the cap on it's left. This will confirm that the PCB was not damaged before or during the replacement. If you don't get connectivity, no biggie, we can slowly troubleshoot from there.
Finally, make sure you have the right power supply
and test it... if it doesn't work, start tracing voltage, with you black probe on the casing (or any ground point on the board), take voltage measurement on the same testing point as number 4 above. Bothe side of the diode and both side of the cap.Thank you for this. Extremely helpful.Wow, I pay mine 6 cents each
Seriously, I could have mailed you 5, in a standard envelop for free... but now that you ordered...
So, there will be a few steps into swapping this. I think you had mentioned you had soldering experience on guitar wiring, but not PCB experience. That's fine, it's not more complicated, but needs a few different step to be sure you get it right.
1- De-solder the existing one and clean up the through hole connection points. Best way to do this is with de-soldering wick and a solder pump. You should end up with the 2 holes clears of solder and the ability to run the new diode legs right through.
2- Bend the diode at the right width and insert in the through holes. You want it to remain close to the board and will need to turn the board around to perform the soldering. I use blue tack gum, just apply a bit to keep the diode in place. You can also bend the leg lightly on the other side of the board, the V created by the legs will keep it in place.
3- Apply solder, put your iron on the PCB pad and apply the solder. With an iron in the 700F range, that should be made in 3 to 4 seconds max. More heat than that may damage the diode. Once in place cut the remaining of the legs, just up to the solder. Don't cut in the solder, you should have a little pick of the leg coming out of it.
4- Once in place, using a DMM, set to continuity and check you have continuity between the sleeve of the power input to both side of the diode. If all good you also want to check the you have continuity between the diode and the cap on it's left. This will confirm that the PCB was not damaged before or during the replacement. If you don't get connectivity, no biggie, we can slowly troubleshoot from there.
Finally, make sure you have the right power supply
Just a note all diodes have a line at one end make sure ya put the new one in the same way.
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