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If Strats Have Curves Then Superstrats Should Have Angles!!

Discussion in 'Non-Fender S-Type Guitar Forum' started by Believer7713, Nov 6, 2019 at 3:58 PM.

  1. Believer7713

    Believer7713 Most Honored Senior Member Silver Member

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    I have started on my next custom mod for someone on our police department that will be partially police themed and partially family themed. It will be pointy and a 7/8 superstrat...That's right, A Jackson Dinky!!!!:thumb:

    I love Dinkys! One of my favorite guitars is a highly modified Dinky, not only in how it looks but also in how it's set up but this is not about Olic but about another one.

    I have been stripping it down to bare wood and have it done for the most part but I have learned a ton about the anatomy of a Dinky that I never knew. For example the body is solid mahogany that is laminated with...well I really don't know what it's laminated with but it seems like it's particle board. I found out that you definitely want to sand it instead of using heat because you can easily burn the laminate and melt the glue and delam the body. Now I have to do a little extra work but it isn't too bad to fix.
    Nevertheles, I have it stripped and ready to start with the custom contours.
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  2. Believer7713

    Believer7713 Most Honored Senior Member Silver Member

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    Ok, I am a dult today. I said mahogany on the body and I was way way wrong. It's cedar.
    I just got done making a much more pronounced forearm relief which is also concave and a scalloped lower horn for reaching the upper register easier and more comfortably.
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    I did most of the shaping with this guy
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    Then finished up and smoothed them out by hand using 80/120/220/320 grits.
    The over pronounced forearm relief both removes the delamed material and makes it a really comfy guitar.

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    Last edited: Nov 6, 2019 at 6:35 PM
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  3. hobdybob

    hobdybob Strat-Talk Member

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    Jackson plywood :D
    i can recall that i bought a guitar like this they called a corps, had a partial broken body.
    when i sanded it down i got the same top sheet of something on both sides.
    maybe to get a total flat surface for the paint?
    i broke the body complete, glued it back together and sanded the sheet complete off
    gave the mahogany a dark transparent finish and it looked great, better than the black it was.
    sold it because i could not manage the floyd bridge
     
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  4. Demon Dave

    Demon Dave Strat-Talker

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    Angles, like these?
    15731523871847457670418799637557.jpg
     
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  5. Believer7713

    Believer7713 Most Honored Senior Member Silver Member

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    Nice! I am really digging that. What kind is it?

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
     
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  6. Demon Dave

    Demon Dave Strat-Talker

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    It’s a Peavey v-type limited edition, Gibson scale, neck through, black
     
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  7. Demon Dave

    Demon Dave Strat-Talker

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    What I can say, is that I like the work you’re doing :thumb:
     
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  8. Believer7713

    Believer7713 Most Honored Senior Member Silver Member

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    Thank you, I really enjoy doing these jobs. I'm hoping to get the rest of the tools to get mu shop completed so I can start gluing and cutting my own body and neck blanks.

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
     
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  9. Cerb

    Cerb Most Honored Senior Member Strat-Talk Supporter

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    Looks great!
     
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  10. Believer7713

    Believer7713 Most Honored Senior Member Silver Member

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    After sanding it down, I found 3 small imperfections that needed correcting. I used some epoxy to fill them.
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    Then sanded them flush.
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    Next was smoothing the entire body with 600 grit sandpaper before laying down the first few coats of primer.
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    You can still see the line of demarcation but now I have a good base to work with to make a glassy smooth body.

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  11. Cerb

    Cerb Most Honored Senior Member Strat-Talk Supporter

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    Damn that looks good! I'm still struggling with runnings and the finish not sticking to certain spots on the body.
     
  12. Ruscio

    Ruscio Strat-O-Master

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    Looking good! I'll be curious to see what you do about that line of demarcation.
     
  13. Believer7713

    Believer7713 Most Honored Senior Member Silver Member

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    Thank you. I noticed you were having issues with yours yesterday. I have two questions to ask you to start.
    1. Did you wipe the body off to make sure it was free of any skin oils or waxes to seal the wood while it was in shipping?
    If not, I would sand it back down, wipe the dust off with a dry soft cloth then use either some naptha or an alchohol base cleaner like automotive brake cleaner on a rag to wipe the entire body with. Even isopropyl alcohol on a rag will do the trick because it will dry out and remove any oil. I've used all three with great results. Just don't get it too wet otherwise it will take a long time to dry. You are only cleaning the surface.
    2. What kind of primer are you using?
    The first guitar I stripped and repainted gave me the same problems with not laying out flat and smooth. It was really thin lije paint instead of thick like primer. Even after 5 coats I could see the grain. Then I remembered that I didn't do anything to raise the grain before I started. Now if I am doing an opaque color I use a "high build" sandable primer that fills and minor imperfections that dont need repaired first. Then I sand it with 240 grit to get that layer straight then 320 grit to smooth it for the next layer. Before spraying the next layer, I wipe it with alchohol again. Be sure to do this EVERY time you spray because it is covered in skin oil and dust.
    Every time I use the sandpaper, I make sure it is on a flat block. to make sure that any high spots like runs or places that I've sprayed thicker to cover pin holes and such will sand smooth and even to the lower spots. The block also ensures even force so you don't end up with a "wavy" paint job. I even use a cylindrical block inside the horns. My first cylinder was cut out of a broom handle.
    Every step of a paint job will rely on the previous step. The more patience and care you put into each step the easier and better the next step will be.
    It's ALL a learning process each time you do one and it really, even though there is a lot of science involved, is an art. You just get better with practice.
    I would suggest setting it down for a while then practicing on some wood blanks from the hardware store. Just some cheap 1×6 pime strips until you can get a technique that works for you. Then sand that body and start over.

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  14. Believer7713

    Believer7713 Most Honored Senior Member Silver Member

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    Thanks,
    I am using a high build primer that is fillong the holes and differences that you see. Yesterday I put 2 coats on the entire body then 4 or 5 more on that area to build it up. Today, I will start sanding it down to even it out. Wash, rinse and repeat until the primer has filled the area and has become level ans smooth.

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  15. Cerb

    Cerb Most Honored Senior Member Strat-Talk Supporter

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    Thank you!

    There was no wax or anything covering the body. Before shipping out it came straight from the CNC router. I didn't clean it with anything, I just sanded it.

    I also didn't use a primer, which may be where I went wrong. I checked the reccomendations forbthebpaint and it shouldn't be necessary. They did mention that you might want to add a white base coat but that would be the same stuff in white.

    I've almost got it covered now, I'll just need to sand down the runnings and put on the final layers. I'm not going for a perfect high gloss finish but rather a matte, shaggy one. I wouldn't mind seeing some grain but I absolutely don't want any visible runnings.
     
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  16. Believer7713

    Believer7713 Most Honored Senior Member Silver Member

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    I forgot to take some pics after sanding today. So I ended up laying down the next layer of primer first. You can see how the aforementioned line of demarcation is all filled in and will be pretty smooth after the next level of sanding. @Ruscio, you wanted to see this.
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    There are still some runs to be smoothed out on the top edge of the upper horn that can be seen here.
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    But that is easy. I was more worried about the face today. It will be ready for carving soon.


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    Last edited: Nov 10, 2019 at 10:10 PM
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  17. Believer7713

    Believer7713 Most Honored Senior Member Silver Member

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    Ok before I had to put everything up for the day I worked on getting the knobs right for this one.
    I had these two knobs that are a little oversized that I wanted to use but they were made for 6 mm shafts. With a little patience, a drill press and a 17/64 drill bit I reamed them to fit the 1/4 inch shaft Bourns pots. The pots are 25k to accommodate the active p'ups that will be in it when finished.
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    A little history for the guy getting this axe...he is a retired cop from LVPD and an honorably discharged Marine. His fiancee wanted me to fit the marines into it somehow so I got a couple marine lapel pins and cut the tacks off the backs.

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    Then since the wreaths were slightly too big for the knobs I removed them.
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    With the help of some JB Weld Clear Weld I glued them to the tops of the knobs to make custom Marine Corp knobs.
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    Last edited: Nov 11, 2019 at 5:34 PM
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  18. Bowmap

    Bowmap I nose a thang or two. Gold Member

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    It is always the little touches you put in.
     
  19. 3bolt79

    3bolt79 Senior Stratmaster

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  20. Nate D

    Nate D Most Honored Senior Member

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    I always enjoy your threads about your builds. This one doesn’t disappoint. :)
     
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