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it you're talking about each saddle being set so it's at an angle relative to the surface of the guitar's body... that depends on your playing styile, because it could facilitate the strings slipping sideways... notching the saddles to receive each string would prevent this.. so its really up to you..
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Loosen the claw screws to bring the bridge back up.Lately have gone for a lighter set of strings (10s) which has had the effect of reducing the floating range of the bridge as it came down almost to a decked position. I was considering bringing the saddles in parallel with the surface of the guitar's body, but since it all works fine as is perhaps I should just leave it there until I'll take it for a full re-fret etc... and get it all sorted at once.
Cheers!
Yeah I know but ....I'm kind of pissed right now...Loosen the claw screws to bring the bridge back up.
Yeah I know but ....I'm kind of pissed right now...
and.. it would reduce the strings'tension and there would be fret buzz happening...and I would have to raise the saddles and...and ...it'd do my head in...
so for dive bombs (i never do) I'll use me other Strat.
...it would reduce the strings'tension and there would be fret buzz happening...
Yeah the string tension would change only if you pulled the strings up or applied pressure by loading on like using a capo.It would not reduce string tension as long as the guitar is tuned the same.
Not the same one that put your saddles crooked?You're all brilliant you guys!
You're like a second conscious of mine but...honestly... This is all a bit too much science right now...sorry to disappoint...
I'll leave it to the tech again...
Cheers!
It's ok, it works for now...Not the same one that put your saddles crooked?
Setting the relief is what you're s'posed to do first, before setting the action
You're all brilliant you guys!
You're like a second conscious of mine but...honestly... This is all a bit too much science right now...sorry to disappoint...
I'll leave it to the tech again...
Cheers!