Know your glues if you're going to do guitar work

Discussion in 'Sidewinders Bar & Grille' started by StratUp, Sep 15, 2021.

  1. StratUp

    StratUp Senior Stratmaster

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  2. simoncroft

    simoncroft Still playing. Still learning! Silver Member

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    Ha ha! Actually, ask any instrument tech which glue is the bane of their life on amateur repairs and they'll tell you: Epoxy Resin, typically branded Araldite.

    If someone makes a bad emergency repair to their horn with solder, all you have to do is heat it up. Same with hide glue on a guitar neck. In either instance, an Araldite repair is a total horror to get apart without causing even more damage. :mad: Just to make it more frustrating, the majority of Araldite repairs to horns could have been just as well with elastic bands, or string.

    Don't do glue kids, it'll mess you up.


    9.74 String brace repair.jpg
     
  3. ukoldgit

    ukoldgit Most Honored Senior Member

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    Choosing the wrong glue is a bit like someone trying to silver solder for the first time, Mr Blobby comes to mind.
     
  4. Wound_Up

    Wound_Up CUSTOM USER TITLE Silver Member

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    What's up with silver soldering? It worked fine for me the first time I did it. But maybe I got lucky? First, what are you referring to as Silver Solder? 62/36/2? Or something else?
     
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  5. StratoMutt

    StratoMutt Most Honored Senior Member

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    Silver or lead free? Lead free sucks.
     
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  6. simoncroft

    simoncroft Still playing. Still learning! Silver Member

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    Well, you pays yer money and yer takes your choice, but the higher the silver content is, the higher the temperature has to be. When you're using it with nickel silver, or a pure silver item, the difference in temperature between hot enough to successfully flow the solder and so hot you've destroyed the work is not great. Typically, an inexperienced user – who is dipping the silver solder into powdered Borax to act as a flux – will be cautious about temperature. Sadly, once the work is dipped into acid to clean it, it turns out the only bond was the solidified Borax, so it falls apart.

    If you're using silver solder to join materials with much higher melting points – ie steel – you can open up the valves on your torch with little chance of burning the work.

    Electrical wiring – and the joins between sections of brass musical instruments – are done with 'soft solder', which is a completely different issue. However, I agree 'lead free' is horrible to work with!

    Screenshot 2021-09-16 at 01.47.53.png
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2021
  7. grumpah

    grumpah Strat-Talker Silver Member

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    I used to braze bicycle frames with silver for the lugs and brass fillets for the drop outs. Wicking silver through a lugged joint was fun.
     
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  8. Boubou

    Boubou Senior Stratmaster Gold Supporting Member

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    I like glues music
     
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  9. ukoldgit

    ukoldgit Most Honored Senior Member

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    The 650-710c melting point stuff used for high pressure steam repairs.
     
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  10. ukoldgit

    ukoldgit Most Honored Senior Member

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    Spot on Simon getting it right is a bit of an art.
     
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  11. Wrighty

    Wrighty Most Honored Senior Member

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    Love the subliminal message!
     
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  12. Wrighty

    Wrighty Most Honored Senior Member

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    Totally agree, I’ve got a stash of the old fashioned stuff which should last me for the rest of my life.
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2021
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  13. nosmo

    nosmo Strat-O-Master

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    I don't know about guitar glues, but I've used Loc-tite 330 system on airplanes and other "things" I have built, and if you ever need to premanently glue a freight train to the rails, this will do it.

    https://www.grainger.com/product/4KL15
     
  14. Boubou

    Boubou Senior Stratmaster Gold Supporting Member

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