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My next idea. Inspired by Fender's new Acoustisonic.

Discussion in 'DIY Strat Forum' started by va3ext, Mar 1, 2019.

  1. CB91710

    CB91710 This is a Custom Title Gold Member Strat-Talk Supporter

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    Yup yup... Very interesting watching this take shape.
    The regular updates help. Too often build threads end up dying off as the builder loses interest and stops posting updates.
    Like a TV show that we like that ends up being canceled on a cliffhanger.
     
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  2. va3ext

    va3ext Strat-Talker

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    Thanks for the compliment.
    There are many other luthiers make my work look primative. I'm a hobby amateur.
     
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  3. va3ext

    va3ext Strat-Talker

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    Got the neck finished tonight.
    Started using my thumb planes, but the Birdseye like chipping out, so I went out to the shop & worked it on the belt sander I built for making knives.

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    Old pic, a buffing belt on it.

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    Measured the neck thickness & profile of my son's 2013 MIM Strat. 9.5" radius & Modern C, same as this.

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    Small chip was already there in the machine tuner hole when I aquired the partially built neck. Should be covered with the tuner.

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    Whiped on some Naptha to bring out the grain.

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    Beautiful Birdseye neck.

    This experimental project is turning out to be a nice axe. Happy with it, as it's my second complete build.
     
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  4. banjaxed

    banjaxed Senior Stratmaster

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    I think that will be a stunning looking guitar when it's finished, great job.
     
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  5. Bowmap

    Bowmap I nose a thang or two. Gold Member

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    Damn... I can't wait to get my shop built. I am getting GAS for getting my builds going. Though I do not think I will match that piece of wooden art.
     
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  6. va3ext

    va3ext Strat-Talker

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    Tuners on tonight.

    image.jpeg
     
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  7. CB91710

    CB91710 This is a Custom Title Gold Member Strat-Talk Supporter

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    I'm the classic "can't draw a straight line"
    Likewise, though I can follow a straight line with a guide I can't follow a curved line cleanly.
    My limit of woodwork, outside of sanding and refinishing, is cabinet type work.
    I've done a few 4x10 cabinets, all dovetailed, most birch ply, but one was red oak to match my Carvin X100.

    CARVIN.JPG 410BLK.JPG 410OAK.JPG
     
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  8. va3ext

    va3ext Strat-Talker

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    Got the pickup routed out & installed after work.

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    Used my Strat pickguard template on a slight angle.

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    Mounted the Semymor Duncan Lillte 59 & set the Hardtail piezo bridge to look.
    I have a Martin style rosewood acoustic bridge coming at the end of the week, I'll likely mount it, with an under-saddle piezo instead of the Hardtail.
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2019
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  9. Nate D

    Nate D Most Honored Senior Member

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    This is phenomenal!!!
     
  10. nederemer

    nederemer Senior Stratmaster

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    I think you are right. I think the acoustic bridge will look so much better. The only thing that might look cooler is if you could some how do a string through design with a tune o matic style bridge on posts, only if it were a piece of wood in the tune o matic shape with an acoustic bridge on it.
     
  11. va3ext

    va3ext Strat-Talker

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    My thoughts for the bridge.

    I thinking about using the acoustic bridge with a piezo under saddle, but running the strings through the body with ferrels, like a Tele, since I have the bridge block in the body.

    Then put the string balls in the acoustic bridge to close the holes & look like a regular acoustic?

    May have more sustain with the strings vibrating in the bridge block with the the thru body?

    What do you think?
     
  12. CB91710

    CB91710 This is a Custom Title Gold Member Strat-Talk Supporter

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    I like that idea.
     
  13. va3ext

    va3ext Strat-Talker

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    Parts came in today.
    Went all the way & got the Graphtech parts as on the real Fender Acoustisonic.
    Decided to also go with an acoustic bridge to be authentic.

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    Bridge was 6" wide, I narrowed it down to 5 1/4" to look more proportional.

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    Lined up perfect centre, & set the saddle as advised by Freeman, +1/16 on "high-E" side, & +3/16 on "low-E" side.

    Drilled initial holes the diameter of the smallest end of the tapered pin, & the depth, the length of the pin with the bridge in place.

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    My violin tuning peg-reamer was too large of diameter on it's small end, but had the correct taper for the upper diameter of the pins. Used it to ream the bridge out.

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    Needed a smaller reamer for the small end of the pin, at the bottom of the bridge block. I found a rat-tail file that seemed to have the same taper as the pins, but the small end of the file was smaller diameter than the pin. I used my caliper to measure the small end diameter of the pin, matched that where that measurement was on the file, then ground the length of the file until it was the same as the pin.

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    Chucked the file in the drill & spun it a while until the hole was tapered to fit the pin.
    Have make things work with what I have on hand, since it would take a week or two to get the correct tool.

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    Came out nice. Pins snug & fitting correct in the bridge. After trying a string in the hole, I had to re-drill the bottom out slightly larger to allow the string ball to fit down in the hole. Things the pros would know before drilling. :rolleyes:

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    Starting to look like the "real thing"!


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    Next will be filing the little string slot in the bridge, where the string pin & bridge meet the string. Also fitting the Tusq saddle in the bridge. Piezo hasn't shown up yet, so the height will be done when it's in place.
     
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  14. CB91710

    CB91710 This is a Custom Title Gold Member Strat-Talk Supporter

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    Are you going to use Tele style ferrules on the back (and string it up from behind), or rely on the pins to retain the strings? You can't have the balls pressing on the bottom of the pins, they'll pull out, but your block design won't allow the balls to move out of the way.
     
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  15. va3ext

    va3ext Strat-Talker

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    Thanks for the info Rich.

    I hadn't realized that the string ball actually moved out of the way under the pin hole to jam the pin in the hole. Never stuck my head in the sound hole to check that out. :D
    My idea definitely won't work, so I'll do like you said, & go with my original idea with ferrels on the back.

    Good thing you guys are keeping me in check. It's great having everyone giving input to us newbies to help us get through some of the challenges.

    As I said before, I'm an amateur, having lots of fun.
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2019
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  16. nutball73

    nutball73 Senior Stratmaster

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    And doing a great job!
     
  17. va3ext

    va3ext Strat-Talker

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    Worked on the bridge today.

    Used the mill to widen the saddle slot. The TUSQ saddle wouldn't fit quite fit. I figured that would be better to widen the slot, than thinning the saddle, since it will give me a little more to work with when filing the saddle for intonation.

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    Then I sanded the saddle on my 9.5" radius block to match the fingerboard. Also cut to width & radiused ends to fit nicely into the slot.

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    Also drilled the ferrel & string holes.

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    Sanded the bottom of the saddle to bring the action almost to the exact Fender Tele specs. I'll fine tune once I get the piezo under saddle.

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    String it up.

    It sounds like a guitar!!

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    With the through-body strings, & bridge pins, the bridge held in down in place nice while I tuned it up.

    A bit quieter than my 1965 Epiphone Granada hollow body, but quite a bit louder than any solid body guitar I have.

    Seems to have a lot of sustain.
     
  18. lammie200

    lammie200 Strat-O-Master

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    Nice work va3ext. You have mad guitar building skills.
     
  19. va3ext

    va3ext Strat-Talker

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    Got the Little 59' pickup & Vol pot wired in.

    Plugged it in. Nice & full sound, with lots of sustain. Sounds pretty nice.

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  20. CB91710

    CB91710 This is a Custom Title Gold Member Strat-Talk Supporter

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    VERY cool!
     
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