nitro refinish

Discussion in 'DIY Strat Forum' started by Dubble-D, Jan 4, 2017.

  1. Dubble-D

    Dubble-D Strat-O-Master

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    Been looking at what re ranch offers and thinking about pulling the trigger. I would redo it myself and I'm not a stickler for perfection so I'm not worried there. Iv never played a nitro finished guitar so I'm not really sure how it feels personally I'm just looking to do it n if it comes out decent than I'm fine with that. Thinking of sanding a bullet down and doing a few or even a coat and just kinda see how it looks how it acts with the and how it ages and relics. Just wundering if you guys have done this yourselves,how to go about spraying/techniques/problems or run ins and any other obstacles or facts I may run into or be blind to and how to get around it. Thanks for any of your stories and smarts I appreciated learned minds
     
  2. sumran

    sumran Fan of Leo

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    It works well. Splatter, fuzz and orange peel are the easy mistakes that can occur. Warm the cans in water before use as they describe. That will help prevent splatter. Spray a test piece until you get a feel for the distance and speed of spray that give you good results. Avoid starting the spray while the nozzle is pointed at the guitar.

    Good luck with it.
     
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  3. kgwagner

    kgwagner Strat-Talker

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    Not to discourage you, but the feel doesn't really change from poly, and contrary to dogma the sound doesn't change at all, and finally, it's a lot of time and work. That's why you don't often see nitro finishes on production guitars. It also invariably ends up costing a lot more to do than you might think at first, so it behooves you to take the time to do the research and do a good job, lest you throw away $75-$100 and 15-20 hours of labor.

    If the guitar you're considering refinishing already has a finish on it, it's almost certainly poly, and stripping that stuff off is no fun at all. If you try sanding it off, you're liable to put a lotta waves in the wood that'll show in in the new finish. So, you want to do a chemical strip and the only thing that works reliably on poly are strippers that contain methylene chloride, which may or may not be tough to get depending on where you live. Stuff's wicked, so a lotta areas limit its availability.

    Finally, be aware that those cans of Reranch contain a lot less lacquer than the container would lead you to believe - it's mostly thinner and propellant, so you'll need more of them than you'd think. Figure by the time you're done between base, color and clear coats you could easily go through 5 cans. Plus grain filler, sandpaper, naphtha, tack cloth, tape, a filter mask and other essentials.

    Once you're done, be aware that while nitro provides a more durable and attractive finish for a guitar than just about anything else, it's still not quite as durable as poly.

    It's often cheaper/easier to buy a new or used body that's already finished the way you'd like than to refinish an existing body. Considering you can often buy a used MIM Strat body for $75 to $150 in very good condition, it rarely makes sense to do your own finishing unless you already have a paint area setup with all the tools and stuff you need.

    All that said, getting a good finish on your own exactly the way you want it is very satisfying. So, if you wanna move on it, read this article from LMI a few times to get a good schedule. It almost guarantees a professional result if you follow it faithfully.
     
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  4. Dubble-D

    Dubble-D Strat-O-Master

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    I meant how it feels like to the touch. Poly or nitro doesn't change tone. Unless you believe in it, in which case it changes tone in your mind so that's enough. But I'm not looking for mirror smooth finish. I rattle cand a white peavey predator into surf green/seafoam/daphne and I didn't strip it I just did a light sand. No clear coat and now the white is coming through in spots under the surf green and it looks cool.I'm just weighing options nothing certain yet
     
  5. Papadosio

    Papadosio New Member!

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    Haha what's good Dubble-D. Don't be discouraged man it really isn't as labor intensive or difficult as the dude above described... I'm 20 and as long as you have basic spraying knowledge (IE light and even coats) the disassembly took about an hour, sanding the body took about a half hour, and spraying in total takes about 2 hours. Nitrocellulose dries very quickly. This is my strat I just finished in ReRanch shell pink with nitrocellulose clear. All in all took less than 5 hours, minus waiting a day for it to dry and reassemble:

    http://i.imgur.com/IXAloAk.jpg

    The paint and clear in total was $45 shipped. Light, even, coats, and my guitar looks and feels like a vintage strat (My uncle owns a 68 and a 77, I have seen and felt them.) So I say go for it man. You got it. If you want to know a little more here's my write up:

    http://www.strat-talk.com/threads/shell-pink-refinish-pv65-pickup-swap.423039/

    Good luck man, do it up!
     
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  6. Dubble-D

    Dubble-D Strat-O-Master

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    I appreciate your post. I don't like to offend(that's a lie!!) So I didn't wanna de value someone's opinion. If it took them 20 hrs to do it than that's the basis. But I sure won't be hand sanding a poly stray. Not in this life. That is what hell is.
     
  7. joe_cpwe

    joe_cpwe Senior Stratmaster

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    Is there anyone selling Nitro finished bodies at a reasonable price?
     
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  8. Groovey

    Groovey Dr. Stratster

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    My best advice is to use a chemical stripper to remover the old paint / finish.

    Yes I have sanded an epiphone sg special and it took days.

    The application of the new finish is the easy part. Compared to sanding off the old stuff. Just watch the ambient temperature and humidity. Not too cold , not to humid. Take your time. Any blotches can always be sanded back
     
  9. craigh

    craigh Strat-Talker

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    I want a nitro finished lefty body.
     
  10. stevierayfan91

    stevierayfan91 DEEPLY SHY.

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    MJT does. They also offer Closest Classic style if don't want aged options.
     
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  11. Papadosio

    Papadosio New Member!

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    You don't need to sand the poly down to bare wood in order to get your paint to adhere well. 30 focused minutes with 400 grit and mine came out like a dream.