Saddle maxed out
- Thread starter Marco772
- Start date
Hey, maybe it really needs it.
Guys here just trying to help.
It's just a normal practice to know if you have a straight enough neck by checking relief before changing neck angles and saddle heights.
I use folded over copper tape for my shims.
Cereal box cardboard will certainly work.
There are guys who are miles ahead of my knowledge showing up at this point...
Scott Baxendale for one.
Listen to him.
He did that, he's coo coo for coco puffs now.
StratUp
Most Honored Senior Member
If that's an American Strat, the grub screw is 4-40, probably 1/4" or 5/16". If those are non-US parts, it's likely M3 x .5 in 8 or 10mm length.
Your local hardware store may have them in stock... I don't know UK hardware stores well though.
Your local hardware store may have them in stock... I don't know UK hardware stores well though.
Is this an American Strat? If so, it has a micro tilt adjustment for the neck, and you don't need to use a shim.
And as @Hanaywhat said, the bridge can be lowered. Not the bridge saddles, the whole bridge plate. Look at the height of the mounting studs.
And as @Hanaywhat said, the bridge can be lowered. Not the bridge saddles, the whole bridge plate. Look at the height of the mounting studs.
I think you're right.
Thanks all, will shop around for the right grub screw as the ones I just received are too fat (although would work with all my other guitars, this one is just being difficult!).
It's a Mexican made Strat if that helps. (MX20103934).
My kingdom for a tiny little grub screw! lol
It's a Mexican made Strat if that helps. (MX20103934).
My kingdom for a tiny little grub screw! lol
In other news, the bridge is screwed down as far as it will allow. I've taken some, possibly, useful photos of the neck with a straight edge (as far as I know that's an acceptable bow?) and the nut which I'm pretty sure is bang on.
There's no massive playability issue to clarify, it's just I've always had (some really good) "budget" end guitars and this is my first "proper" one so want to make sure it's set up as well as it can be (at least before I concede defeat and hand it over to a pro!).
There's no massive playability issue to clarify, it's just I've always had (some really good) "budget" end guitars and this is my first "proper" one so want to make sure it's set up as well as it can be (at least before I concede defeat and hand it over to a pro!).
Nut looks fine (could have been cut better, but height looks acceptable.
A bit more relief than I'd like to see... I'd snug up the truss rod a hair, relief should be in the ballpark of the thickness of a B string.
Fender does sell packs of grub screws that are staggered with 4 short ones.
A bit more relief than I'd like to see... I'd snug up the truss rod a hair, relief should be in the ballpark of the thickness of a B string.
Fender does sell packs of grub screws that are staggered with 4 short ones.
soulman969
Most Honored Senior Member
I typically advocate learning how to do you own setups but with this one I'd take it to a tech and have him do a complete setup for you. The bridge and saddles are completely out of whack and it's highly likely the relief is as well. It needs a lot of work.
I feel this may be the wisest course of action at this point and given all of the above. Thank you.
soulman969
Most Honored Senior Member
Just trying to give you the best suggestion I can. Then you'll have it right as a baseline for future adjustments. Good luck.
This is actually good advice if you're new to tinkering. A baseline of a well set up guitar and understanding that you can tell the difference, is imperative in learning to achieve such standard.Just trying to give you the best suggestion I can. Then you'll have it right as a baseline for future adjustments. Good luck.
And there's also nothing wrong with handing stuff over to a good luthier, just because you cannot be arsed.
That grub screw is not the same thread pitch.
Look close…compare.
On those straight edge tools, one side is for 25 1/2 scale and the other is for 24 3/4 scale and using the right side of it the frets will fit in the notches so you can look at the wood level as well as the frets level to measure your relief and also see how well the frets are placed for intonation.
I use the strings to measure relief by fretting the highest fret on the low E and also the 1st fret then measure at the 7th fret…fret to bottom of string.
Link to sweetwater for some reference.
Fender Recommended Neck Relief - inSync
For those of you brave souls out there that are do-it-yourselfers, you’ll probably be adjusting your... Read more »
www.sweetwater.com
Once you know your relief is in range you adjust the saddle on the Low E to set you string height at the 17 fret with the string open to…
| Neck Radius | String Height Bass Side | Treble Side |
| 7.25" 9.5" to 12" 15" to 17" | 5/64" (2 mm) 4/64" (1.6 mm) 4/64" (1.6 mm) | 4/64" (1.6 mm) 4/64" (1.6 mm) 3/64" (1.2 mm) |
Yes, that was the point I was making. They all seem to be that type except for the ones on this guitar. Which is a tad annoying...
Brilliant, thank you.
Does this seller sell in the UK?
They have metric and American threaded ones.
For $7 I ordered both just to avoid your sitution.
They have metric and American threaded ones.
For $7 I ordered both just to avoid your sitution.
stratomatt
Strat-O-Master
It looks like the treble side is a bit higher to me. But it may be hard to tell from the pics.
