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SG + Tele + Strat = ?? and New Router Day

Discussion in 'DIY Strat Forum' started by Bowmap, Mar 31, 2019.

  1. Bowmap

    Bowmap Thank You that have served and are serving. Gold Member

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    @MrNeutron... Much appreciated taking the time to spread your experience. All my furniture has been hand finished. I probably has a few dozen throw away brushes and then a few really fine hair brushes for the last coat. Most of the finishes are applied while the item is laying flat so the finish coats can level out. But now I an stepping into a much higher finish level.
     
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  2. MrNeutron

    MrNeutron Strat-Talker

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    Have you gotten to use your new router yet? I think I may possibly take the plunge and try routing out a body someday, but I have never owned a router. All my Ryobi tools I've bought have been solid and reliable, so I'd expect that yours will hold up well?
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2019
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  3. Bowmap

    Bowmap Thank You that have served and are serving. Gold Member

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    Actually on this project. I have a little Bosch Colt, a cheapo in my router table built into the workbench I made for my neighbor's barn, the fore mentioned Porter Cable 890 (Rust In Piece) and the new Bosch in the picture above.
     
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  4. Bowmap

    Bowmap Thank You that have served and are serving. Gold Member

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    Managed to have a SUNday with sunshine this morning. Starting to cloud up now though. Warm weather, visions of sawdust on my mind.

    2 Things I wanted to accomplish... route the control pocket and drill the holes for the bridge.

    I found my way over to my drill press and went to work setting it up for the first of 3 operations. Each operation has a different hole size and depth. 1 - Bridge screw holes 7/64 x 1. 2 - String through holes 9/64 and 3 - Ferrule Holes - 5/16 x 5/16.
    Completed all there but I wish I had a the room to add a stage to my drill press. Well I now know something I need to work on. I probably should have let the template in place for the string holes. I can see where I am off a touch. I had marked them using a bit that was large as possible to fit in the template hole and spin it by hand. After all marked removed the template to drill. This cause a little variation, dag nab it (real words filter to protect your ears). Now I need to figure out how to correct that mistake because it was amplified on the ferrule holes as the string holes where the pilot holes for drill the ferrule holes. Errors are a part of learning and skill development.

    Moving on, I reattached the template and routed out the control cavity. Checking depth as I went.

    GXT004-016 sm.jpg

    Hmmm... normal depth should be 1 5/8 but my guitar is only 1 1/2 inch think. That was the way the spalted maple came. So my max depth I went for was 1 3/8. I was thinking of doing an offset route for the control panel so it would sit flush but I do not have the depth using the 3 way switch I planned on using. It does fit OK if the panel is surface mounted. A Euro style switch might be shallower though. I will need to ponder that.

    GXT004-019 sm.jpg

    Need to check the pots that are mounted to a PCB for fit. Hmmm... that ain't right.

    GXT004-017 sm.jpg

    Looks like the PCB is too wide for the control cavity but it IS narrower than the control panel so I can widen the control cavity a little to make it all fit. Measured the depth required and using the template, offset it a little to the left, routed down to the needed depth and then repeat operation on the right. Voila'.

    GXT004-018 sm.jpg

    Well the weather is holding maybe I can drill some of the wiring channels. Started at the neck and drilled towards the bridge. Crap.. drill bit not long enough when in the drill as the chuck is getting in the way. Reverse direction... Unable to control drill enough and got a small nick. Then I remembered I have an 18inch 1/2 boring bit. Why the heck does my memory not recall things sooner. The boring bit did the trick.

    GXT004-025 sm.jpg

    I do need to get a long 1/8 inch drill bit to finish the hole for the ground wire to the bridge.

    NEXT: Correct the ferrule holes, and touch up the nick. Finish ground wire hole. Round over guitar edges.
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2019
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  5. CB91710

    CB91710 This is a Custom Title Gold Member Strat-Talk Supporter

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    One solution to the body thickness problem.... Carefully "bread slice" the body down the center and sandwich two 3/16 pieces of walnut or Rosewood and one 3/16" piece of maple.
    It'll provide more clearance in the cavity, and put a nice "buzz stripe" on the perimeter.
     
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  6. Bowmap

    Bowmap Thank You that have served and are serving. Gold Member

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    Thanks. I will remember that. That would look cool. Too nice for this build. I am, on purpose, going for a ratty look. I want to put a flat finish on it so it would like no finish at all. But I can change my mind. That idea is stuck in my head.
     
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  7. Sonicboom

    Sonicboom Strat-Talk Member

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    I interesting concept, les paul body, strat neck. 2 of my favorite guitars combined. Looking forward for the finished product. Wondering how the intonation will work?
     
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  8. Bowmap

    Bowmap Thank You that have served and are serving. Gold Member

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    If the scale length is correct for the neck and fret spacing it should intonate without to much trouble. The bridge is positioned for 25.5 inch scale.
     
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  9. Groovey

    Groovey Most Honored Senior Member Strat-Talk Supporter

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    That's a great start!
     
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  10. Bowmap

    Bowmap Thank You that have served and are serving. Gold Member

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    It was time for a mad dash to set up my shop. The rain stopped, I could see a little blue above, and off in the distance I could hear the rhythmic thump of Bradley Fighting machine sending rounds downrange. To add to this drumming, a pair Raptors howling as they cruised about over head. Ah the sounds of Spring.

    I purchased a long 1/8 bit and finished to hole from the control cavity to under the bridge. I did order a European style 3 way switch and it is about 3/16 inch shorter.

    GXT004-026.jpg

    This meant I could flush mount the control panel. So outside I went. The template I have is a little short for the control panel. So this would be a two step operation. First I had to align the control panel and then then screw it down. Traced a line with pencil around it and took it off again.

    GXT004-028.jpg

    Using double side tape, align and stuck my template on. Routed a shelf about 1/8 inch deep. Lifted the template off, adjusted position to finish the shelf.

    GXT004-030.jpg

    Drop in the control panel and all is good in the woods.

    GXT004-031.jpg

    Rounded over front and back edge to 1/4 inch radius. A bit more then most teles but I find that radius more comfortable.

    GXT004-033.jpg

    As I started working on the belly cut and forearm cut, mother nature decide it was time to close the shop.

    GXT004-034.jpg

    NEXT: Get the forearm and belly cuts done. I have some scrapers, I ought to give them a go.
     
  11. Bowmap

    Bowmap Thank You that have served and are serving. Gold Member

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    And nature just keeps on giving.

    Got to work on the forearm and belly cuts. With the belly cut I noticed a small problem area. Spalted wood is that way because is fungus has gotten into the wood. The fungus left alone will soften and rot wood. Natures way of recycling trees though it is a long process. While working on the belly cut I discovered a soft spot. Because of the difference in hardness of the wood the sand paper was eating away at the soft spot much faster and now I had a lumpy section to deal with. I wound up putting the body template back on and repositioning a curve of the template that allowed me to route a new shape and remove that section of wood.

    GXT004-036 sm.jpg

    Maybe a little more curvy than a normal tele but it ain't gonna be normal. Got done with the sanding and the forearm cut. Made the belly cut petite and contoured the area under the neck. Everything felt good and time to blow off the dust that had been collecting in the nooks and crannies.

    Fore Arm Cut:
    GXT004-043 sm.jpg

    Belly Cut:
    GXT004-042 sm.jpg

    Not only is the wood spalted, but it is aeriated too! I had not used compressed air on the carcass until today. The sawdust was packed tight in these insect tunnels. More tunnels than under Manhattan.

    Neck contour:
    GXT004-038 sm.jpg

    Well... I wanted a ratty tele. Little did I know it was going to be reliced by nature. New form of hollow body. The P90s might have something for resonance.

    Structurally I think I am going to be OK. But now, I really have to re-think my finishing plans. @EAllen mentioned a product called Z-Poxy. This wooden English Muffin I have here will likely need something like that to fill in these artifacts. I do not mind their visibility. I need to rename my rat tele to Termite Tele. Termitecastor.
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2019
  12. Supernut

    Supernut Strat-Talker

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    When I got my HVLP the first thing I did was put runs all over a beautiful piece of quilted maple. After a lot of sanding and about $50 deposited in the curse jar it did turn out, but that's good advice.
     
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  13. EAllen

    EAllen Strat-Talker

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    Love it! Great work.

    If you are going to actually fill the holes you might consider a 30 minute high strength epoxy. Z-poxy might work as well since it is nice and thin. Heating up the body and the epoxy helps air bubbles work their way out and seep into the crevices more. .

    If you are planning to leave the holes, wood turners use wood hardener like Minwax Wood Hardner to actually submerge their parts in it for some time. Spalted wood tends to come apart on a lathe otherwise. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPINKS/?tag=strattalk05-20

    Look forward to seeing the progress!

    Eric
     
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  14. Bowmap

    Bowmap Thank You that have served and are serving. Gold Member

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    Thank you very much for looking at it. I want a smooth surface of course but I do not mind the fill to be transparent. Filling with an opaque filler might take away from the character (and there is a lot of that) of the wood.
     
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  15. EAllen

    EAllen Strat-Talker

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  16. Bowmap

    Bowmap Thank You that have served and are serving. Gold Member

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    I have ordered in some of the Bob Smith. Both the 30 minute and the 20 minute pot times. What I may try is to work it into the tunnels with a syringe first then apply and overall application. ETA is 5/9.

    NEXT: Finish the machining of the body. I have the jack hole to drill, three ferule holes I am correcting, and the machining for the micro-tilt.
     
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  17. rafasounds

    rafasounds Senior Stratmaster

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    Very interesting. Good work.
     
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  18. Bowmap

    Bowmap Thank You that have served and are serving. Gold Member

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    Had time for a little inside work this evening.

    I drilled the neck pocket and the relief for the micro tilt.

    GXT004-047 sm.jpg

    Drilled the headstock for the two pin Fender Locking tuners I have laying around. Just the locater pin holes needed to be added.

    GXT004-045 sm.jpg

    And on the other end of the neck I need a pocket for the other part of the micro tilt to sit in so it would be flush.

    GXT004-046 sm.jpg

    NEXT: Install nut and start finishing the neck. I just have not figured out the best order to do those things.
     
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  19. Bowmap

    Bowmap Thank You that have served and are serving. Gold Member

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    Partly Cloudy. Bad weather in the Midwest. Let's see if I can get some work done on this.

    I did not like the alignment of the neck plate. So last weekend I put dowels in the holes to make another go at it. This time much better.

    Per suggestion from @EAllen, I decided to try an epoxy as my base coat and to fill in the worm holes. My plan is to use a low viscosity epoxy as a sealer on the first coat. I used a 60 minute cure. The wood soaked it up much more than I was expecting. These pics were taken just after putting the brush down.

    GXT004-048 sm.jpg GXT004-049 sm.jpg GXT004-051 sm.jpg

    The other good thing about low viscosity, it will level out better which is important to me as I brushed it on.

    Next: Sand and re-coat with 20 minute cure.
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2019
  20. Bowmap

    Bowmap Thank You that have served and are serving. Gold Member

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    While the body is drying... it will be 24hrs before I can hit it with the sander, I moved on to the neck.

    I am now glad I built the pergola over my front porch. It gave me a place to hang the neck (and as long as I do not spill stuff on the deck my wife won't be using it the hang my neck). So after thinking about it, I decided to apply the 1st coat with wadding (lintless rag). I have used wadding to wipe on finishes before so I am comfortable doing so. I choose a nitro-cellulose sanding sealer. Well, it was what I have on hand. Basically, pour a little on to the rag and apply. It will only cover several inches at a time so a lot of repeating keep the rag moist. Not the whole rag just about a half dollar size area. Wipe it on to the wood. This lays down very thin coats. Don't over do it. Once the wood looks wet move on and do not forget to blend the start and stops. Generally wipe with the grain. Because this neck is already fretted, I had to go across the grain and then wipe with the grain.

    GXT004-053 sm.jpg

    I like the way it is looking. Once this is fully dry, it will take another few coats mostly on the back of the neck. I'll see how it feels after each coat.
     
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