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Discussion in 'Stratocaster Discussion Forum' started by dscottyg, Oct 2, 2021.
That's not a shim, it's a streak.
Stratocaster... Shimocaster... Same thing.
What makes you think it wasn't setup properly? "Properly" is relative to what the guitarists requires in the way of a setup.. thus if a shim. . . or an old rusty nail for that matter, is required.. its implementation makes the setup proper...
A "normal" person would know that...
what grit gives the best tone?
Depends on how gritty you want your tone.
Ummmm shims are normal.
I guess my 5 Strats are abnormal as none have or require a shim or use of the micro tilt.
JMHO, shims are sometimes required and a shimmed neck pocket if done correctly would not bother me at all.
Wood by its nature is not perfect. Slight movement and displacements are to be expected. If the body moves slightly up between the neck pocket and bridge a shim (or micro tilt) adjustment would be required to compensate (tapered wood shims can be purchased just for this), if the body moved the opposite then the bridge would need to be raised slightly to compensate.
IMHO, these are all considered NORMAL set up adjustments.
"Underpants with more skid marks than the starting grid at Brands Hatch".
If you want the guitar for a specific reason, e.g. year, finish, fitted pickups, provenance, or whatever, go ahead and buy it.
If not, walk away and find another one.
It's a Strat, the guitar equivalent of a Chevy (sorry, but it is), not an ultra-rare Ferrari.
If you DO buy it, try setting it up without the shim. If it works for you that way, great. If not, you can replace the shim it came with, or fit a different shim of your own.
Shims can be bought ready made (expensive IMHO). If you're a bit handy, you can make your own for a lot less using birch plywood from a hobby store. It's sold in 8 inch x 4 inch sheets going down to 1/32 inch, typically around $5 a sheet. If you're a cheapskate like me, even old credit cards or plastic gift cards can also be used.
What happens if you remove it? My 89 plus deluxe was at the wilk nut. The luthier I took it too said it didn't need them and removed it. Does that matter?
That was for the nut height, not the neck angle.
As with the neck angle, a shim may or may not be required to get the proper setup.
PSA: The last airliner you flew on had thousands of shims, some of them were at major structural joints. If shims freak you out, I would recommend avoiding air travel.
That’s awesome. Your 5 Strat inventory compared to the amount of Fender guitars sold since the glory days doesn’t make your guitars abnormal. It’s normal, it’s not rare or abnormal to not require a shim based on setup requirements per player.
How do you use an Allen screw and a coin to shim a guitar neck? You’ve peaked my curiously. Please explain. Thanks.
You set the coin in the underside of the neck, in the area where it sits on /in the body, usually towards the bridge end.
You drill through the body at the bridge end of the neck pocket.
You then fit a threaded insert (called a "threaded tee nut") like this:
On the inside face of the neck pocket.
The Allen screw (a grub screw) goes through the hole in the body and the threaded insert. Tighten the screw and it pushes on the coin, raising that end of the neck.
It will raise the bridge end of the neck, but it won't lower it, of course.
You can buy retrofit kits, but the Home Depot way is a heck of a lot cheaper.
I use this same concept to gain elevation on a one-piece rifle scope base. Clean and effective means to change component relationships.
Surely a shim is a sign that the guitar has been made wrong?