mistermikev

Strat-Talker
May 12, 2018
254
surprise, az
Wow that like a demo of what a CNC can create. I think you might get more inquiries about CNCing than guitars!! Haha - I serious - programming those beasts is an artform in itself!!
very kind of you to say. I know my place - just a student here so, very much appreciate the kind words.
 

Bcorig

Senior Stratmaster
Gold Supporting Member
Feb 17, 2018
1,696
Chino Hills CA
I guess you are more of a breaking bad fan than me cause I had to think about this comment for a bit b4 it dawned on me! best show ever. better call saul is right up there w it imo.
It’s a fact as soon as I read the piece it immediately appeared in my mind. It’s weird, Walt...
 

Tele like it is

Left is right!
Apr 2, 2010
7,963
Los Angeles
than you for the reply - with respect, I disagree (bookmatch fretboard) and here is my top ten list of reasons why...

if that (join) was going to be a problem -it would be a problem with laminated necks...

I have yet to see a single laminated neck that isn't capped with a single piece fretboard. Interesting idea, though...

The glue joint there should be stronger than the wood assuming the joint is good... and that wood joint is as good as it gets - zero glue line.

Interesting... In that case, wouldn't the glue line become the harder point, making the wood wear on either side of it at a faster rate? Still a problem.

it's typically not done (multi piece fretboard) because it's a ton of extra work... but lots of examples of Marquetry fretboards out there if you have a look -from fedora to you-name-it.

Ah! Excellent point! There are plenty of inlaid and decorative fretboard treatments where the various materials have differing hardness (sometimes multiple variations). So I rescind that point.

"I could do that too" before I even dreamed of having a cnc I did two strats and one tele of almost identical radius top/back construction.

I've had cnc for all of 3 months... learned everything I know in that time. Seems to be a general misconception that it's push a button and out pops a guitar... but the only way you'd learn how mistaken that theory is -is to do it yourself.

I'm sure it would take me an awful lot or perfectly ruined "practice" bits before I got to the point where I could properly program a CNC machine. But, oh, the things I would make once I did! But first I need a place to live. Then I need a place to work. Then, I need a place in the workplace to put the machine. Oh, and I need an oscillating drum sander. Ooh, yes, and a belt sander! And a band saw! And now I need a BIGGER place to put them! (It sucks, living in Mom's guest room with all my stuff in storage!) Oh, wait, i also need a pin router table...
 

mistermikev

Strat-Talker
May 12, 2018
254
surprise, az
I have yet to see a single laminated neck that isn't capped with a single piece fretboard. Interesting idea, though...



Interesting... In that case, wouldn't the glue line become the harder point, making the wood wear on either side of it at a faster rate? Still a problem.



Ah! Excellent point! There are plenty of inlaid and decorative fretboard treatments where the various materials have differing hardness (sometimes multiple variations). So I rescind that point.



I'm sure it would take me an awful lot or perfectly ruined "practice" bits before I got to the point where I could properly program a CNC machine. But, oh, the things I would make once I did! But first I need a place to live. Then I need a place to work. Then, I need a place in the workplace to put the machine. Oh, and I need an oscillating drum sander. Ooh, yes, and a belt sander! And a band saw! And now I need a BIGGER place to put them! (It sucks, living in Mom's guest room with all my stuff in storage!) Oh, wait, i also need a pin router table...
so... regarding "lam neck that isn't capped with single piece fretboard" - my point was more about the small strip of wood under the truss rod. blade guitars used to make two piece necks by ripping a board and flipping it. I believe those did have a fretboard on top... but I was pointing out that on the back of the neck... where there is only 1/8" - 1/4" of material between the truss and the back of the neck... that wood gets stressed just as much as a fretboard when relief is put into a neck. possibly more... but those necks were not prone to any sort of issues I'm aware of. If it works there... it's likely not going to be a problem on the fretboard.

didn't mean to get touchy regarding cnc... no prodigy here. as with anything else... "what one man can do another man can do".
 

mistermikev

Strat-Talker
May 12, 2018
254
surprise, az
so... had some issues with machines but back at it. finally getting somewhere!!! NeckBack.jpg NeckDotsI.jpg
NeckDotsII.jpg

here you can just make out the bookmatched fretboard. wood is very white so hard to capture on camera. headstock overlay is matching wood - and slips under the fretboard where they meet (thought that was a nice touch). was a real pita to bend it after it was bookmatched because naturally any kind of moisture on that center seam and it's all over.
NeckFull.jpg

MV logo is actually inlaid but sits below the face/surface. was hoping for a sort of 3D effect. once I put the gold around it it should match nicely with the brass surrounds on the fretboard markers.
NeckHeadstock.jpg

so here is my body. the radius of this one is far more drastic than what I have done before. It's actually a 9R to 16R transition at the back and 7-14 at the front.
teleBodyI.jpg

my body seam (on the left there you can make out the two pieces at the bottom) turned out great. can't even see the seam this deep in the body. straight off the tablesaw. can still do better, plenty of room for improvement afa grain match but I'm fairly pleased w myself. (yay team me!!)
TeleBodyII.jpg
 

mistermikev

Strat-Talker
May 12, 2018
254
surprise, az
so... some minor updates... this is just a test run - not using my target wood cause I figured I'd hit a few snags and I def did!! Learned a lot!!

a shot of the bottom curve:

IMG_3641.thumb.JPG.6d2f81e4cc5c108a82cca39f68a67507.JPG


a shot of the back... can you see my wood join?

IMG_3645.thumb.JPG.36fe67c8610c17bfe949acc09d1d5008.JPG


dyed and sealed the inner chamber...

IMG_3639.thumb.JPG.d525a309b4ad8255485036b6bd1dbc87.JPG


the top curve:

IMG_3650.thumb.JPG.f4d34b01afc86adfa4e7461cc96a70f2.JPG


IMG_3651.thumb.JPG.95a0cc6932415e83fb1dfda6f4f1738c.JPG


IMG_3652.thumb.JPG.b1b939dd576977454550602e5bfe9246.JPG
 

mistermikev

Strat-Talker
May 12, 2018
254
surprise, az
It took a bit to spot it.
thank you for playing mr bowmap!! well, this was part of me trying to dial in my process. for tops I always use frontside/backside router cut... but for body blanks that's sort of dangerous... so this was done on my tablesaw. pretty solid join all the way thru. my gain match was a lot better on the other blanks so hoping it's almost undetectable there but despite cutting into it 1/2" it's a pretty solid join if I do say so.
 

mistermikev

Strat-Talker
May 12, 2018
254
surprise, az
Are those plexiglass panels keeping the dust contained well?
they are pretty good. I have about 3" at the bottom that I was going to put a piece on the outside of them to both seal it, and strengthen it in case something goes flying. the amount I get outside the box is pretty minimal so I just haven't bothered. that said... I'm running dust collection on it all the time too.
 

Bowmap

Redacted
Platinum Supporting Member
Dec 23, 2017
11,586
S-T
Every build is getting cooler and cooler. The faux binding is a good trick. I am not sure how I would do that without bleed.
 

mistermikev

Strat-Talker
May 12, 2018
254
surprise, az
Every build is getting cooler and cooler. The faux binding is a good trick. I am not sure how I would do that without bleed.
thank very much sir. I am always trying to one up myself each time... always taking on things I've never done. the faux binding was a first for me... but I have seen folks do it before. you just tape it off and then shoot clear. I actually laid down tru oil first so it would soak in and give protection at more depth. Things I learned: use 1/8" masking tape to outline the body... works fantastic. also... I used mailing labels to tape off the f holes. I knew that part would be really hard to be consistent... so I printed out the f hole 1/16" big, cut it out slowly with fiskars... positioned it and taped the edges... then peel back and stick. easy peasy. worked like a charm.
 


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