very kind of you to say. I know my place - just a student here so, very much appreciate the kind words.Wow that like a demo of what a CNC can create. I think you might get more inquiries about CNCing than guitars!! Haha - I serious - programming those beasts is an artform in itself!!
It’s a fact as soon as I read the piece it immediately appeared in my mind. It’s weird, Walt...I guess you are more of a breaking bad fan than me cause I had to think about this comment for a bit b4 it dawned on me! best show ever. better call saul is right up there w it imo.
than you for the reply - with respect, I disagree (bookmatch fretboard) and here is my top ten list of reasons why...
if that (join) was going to be a problem -it would be a problem with laminated necks...
The glue joint there should be stronger than the wood assuming the joint is good... and that wood joint is as good as it gets - zero glue line.
it's typically not done (multi piece fretboard) because it's a ton of extra work... but lots of examples of Marquetry fretboards out there if you have a look -from fedora to you-name-it.
"I could do that too" before I even dreamed of having a cnc I did two strats and one tele of almost identical radius top/back construction.
I've had cnc for all of 3 months... learned everything I know in that time. Seems to be a general misconception that it's push a button and out pops a guitar... but the only way you'd learn how mistaken that theory is -is to do it yourself.
so... regarding "lam neck that isn't capped with single piece fretboard" - my point was more about the small strip of wood under the truss rod. blade guitars used to make two piece necks by ripping a board and flipping it. I believe those did have a fretboard on top... but I was pointing out that on the back of the neck... where there is only 1/8" - 1/4" of material between the truss and the back of the neck... that wood gets stressed just as much as a fretboard when relief is put into a neck. possibly more... but those necks were not prone to any sort of issues I'm aware of. If it works there... it's likely not going to be a problem on the fretboard.I have yet to see a single laminated neck that isn't capped with a single piece fretboard. Interesting idea, though...
Interesting... In that case, wouldn't the glue line become the harder point, making the wood wear on either side of it at a faster rate? Still a problem.
Ah! Excellent point! There are plenty of inlaid and decorative fretboard treatments where the various materials have differing hardness (sometimes multiple variations). So I rescind that point.
I'm sure it would take me an awful lot or perfectly ruined "practice" bits before I got to the point where I could properly program a CNC machine. But, oh, the things I would make once I did! But first I need a place to live. Then I need a place to work. Then, I need a place in the workplace to put the machine. Oh, and I need an oscillating drum sander. Ooh, yes, and a belt sander! And a band saw! And now I need a BIGGER place to put them! (It sucks, living in Mom's guest room with all my stuff in storage!) Oh, wait, i also need a pin router table...
thank you for playing mr bowmap!! well, this was part of me trying to dial in my process. for tops I always use frontside/backside router cut... but for body blanks that's sort of dangerous... so this was done on my tablesaw. pretty solid join all the way thru. my gain match was a lot better on the other blanks so hoping it's almost undetectable there but despite cutting into it 1/2" it's a pretty solid join if I do say so.It took a bit to spot it.
they are pretty good. I have about 3" at the bottom that I was going to put a piece on the outside of them to both seal it, and strengthen it in case something goes flying. the amount I get outside the box is pretty minimal so I just haven't bothered. that said... I'm running dust collection on it all the time too.Are those plexiglass panels keeping the dust contained well?
thank very much sir. I am always trying to one up myself each time... always taking on things I've never done. the faux binding was a first for me... but I have seen folks do it before. you just tape it off and then shoot clear. I actually laid down tru oil first so it would soak in and give protection at more depth. Things I learned: use 1/8" masking tape to outline the body... works fantastic. also... I used mailing labels to tape off the f holes. I knew that part would be really hard to be consistent... so I printed out the f hole 1/16" big, cut it out slowly with fiskars... positioned it and taped the edges... then peel back and stick. easy peasy. worked like a charm.Every build is getting cooler and cooler. The faux binding is a good trick. I am not sure how I would do that without bleed.