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Discussion in 'Tech-Talk' started by StratoStrummer, Sep 10, 2021.
OOOO steel wool.
I've found over the years a mixture of pizza and chicken grease keeps everything lubed up and working fine
Wipe gently when you first get it.Play,wipe,play,wipe,play.No need for chemicals or any other product from any of those marketing companies.Clean your hands,wipe your strings/board when done playing.Change strings....wipe board with DAMP cloth...buff.
Take them out to dinner.
My secret weapon►3M Trizac 3000 grit foam pad . Shines the frets like mirrors. Then Old English lemon oil (on rosewood only). After the Trizac on maple boards, a clean cotton cloth(old sweat socks, towels) to remove the tarnish it creates. I only go cross ways parallel with the frets, never against them. Another handy tool is the 3M sand paper holder that locks it in place. You can use the pads 8-10 times before they get grunged up. Works like it's illegal ! You can try it at about $20 , and the handle lasts forever
I do interpretive dance for them and the occasional slam poem.
They smile to me and make me feel happy.
Simichrome is the stuff !
Great for cleaning up old neglected carbon steel knife blades too.
I'll wipe them down once every couple of years, maybe lemon oil the fretboard every 6-12 months, wipe down the entire guitar every week or three. playing keeps the frets clean and slinky enough. If you're always polishing your frets then don't forget to polish your strings too.
This old dog can't seem to learn the new internet protocols for caring for string instruments, but I have managed to keep my 55+ year old Univox 335 in near pristine condition, some finish cracking and a little split on the neck (I repaired). Never refretted or had any electronics replaced, I have cleaned the pots and 3 way a few times.
I took her for a spa day to a local great luthier who had her for 2 weeks, just to clean, polish, setup and check things over. Only because she survived a house fire while in her case, and I was too busy dealing with ins company and the loss to spend the time she needed to desmoke. That's where the neck cracks/splits came from. She also got a new hard-shell , Well a new to her hardshell
I've found not using strings harder than the frets is harder than ever to find. The nickel-coated strings are stainless steel underneath and I don't know how long it takes to wear through that coating on the plain strings. If it's less than a couple of months, the coated plain strings are likely to be stainless steel on the frets. I always have to dig deep into the strings' descriptions and specs to determine what I'm getting. I wish companies would standardize the use of stainless steel frets. That would simplify string purchases w/o fear.
Hi, Have you tried the Stewart-MacDonald fret erasers, yet? I like them, and the metal strips of fret-protectors safeguard the fret wood from scratches. Your way is just fine, and I've always felt very satisfied using your technique, but I've gone back to the series of fretboard erasers recently because the cleanup is easier and faster and all I have to clean up is the leftover eraser little crumbles like with a pencil eraser. And my wife doesn't complain about fret eraser crumbles like she does when I drop the wadding or get a smear of the cloths on something. And I've had great luck, as well, using the little Gibson fret conditioner liquid. I just remove the top and touch the tip to each fret section and place a drop of it between each fret all the way up to the fretboard end. Then I use my index finger to massage it into the board in a cross-grained rubbing. On a new guitar recently I had to apply 7 coats on the board to saturate the wood and that gave me a lot of satisfaction, as well. Here's a link to a photo of the Gibson conditioner:
If the frets are horribly scratched or corroded I may use the erasers but for oxidization light dirt the tools I showed work well. Also I have been using NVR-DULL and it also works well as a fret cleaner before the polish. Of course using slotted board protectors with blue tape on them as picture before.
Finally got to the new, to me, 2007 SG last night.
Yeah I looked my issue is I dig in and get it done not pausing to take pics.
Play 'em ... as much as possible !!
As I first acquire the guitar, I inspect the frets along with everything else. If I hear a problem, it's easier to know where to start looking. All else being tolerable, I rub the frets with a 100% lint-free cloth (bandana/hankie) to see how that feels and if any coloration comes away. I may look at them with magnifiers to see if there are sustain killing scratches. I have a few different fret radius sanding blocks from Stewmac, if I want to compound the radius, I do it then with some 1000 to 1200 wet-r-dry. I made a polishing block from a rubber auto finish sanding block that I fixed a slab of leather to, then worked in a medium grade polishing compound. I use that to further reduce any roughness from the paper. I usually finish that off with a jeweler's cloth under that block over the leather. The frets will absolutely sparkle and I find they stay that way for quite a while, I check with every string change (as long as the strings are off, anyway...). I like smooth, slippery bending as well.
I chastise them for being in the wrong place when I snap my fingertips down on the neck.
When I change strings, I use pure mineral oil, maybe some fret doctor if I notice the board shrinking or fret ends poking. The. I will use 0000 steel wool and put rags over my pickups, maybe a micro cloth or super super fine detail sandpaper if they are super bunked.