What is steel equivalent of PW-29 zinc tremolo bridge block?

[paynec]

My sons classic player 60s has finally completely stripped the threads in the zinc tremolo block. I have used a die to clear the buildup of zinc in the threads of the whammy bar twice before, but now there are no threads left for it to screw into (he was using it without a spring for a long time which probably contributed). He takes the train to various guitar lessons and band practices about 5 times a week (x2). This means he unscrews and screws the bar about 10 times weekly.

I want to replace the block with a steel block, preferably with a push fit whammy. Can anyone tell me what the steel equivalent of fender pw-29 zinc block is? Preferably with a push in whammy bar.

thanks in advance,
Michael

 

[Lateralu_s]

I think pw-36

 

[paynec]

Pw-36 seems to have threaded arm.

It seems the american professional series block is what I need (steel & push fit arm) but it's 150€ eek!

I'm not sure if this wilkinson is a match https://www.ebay.de/itm/115708094186

 

[Wulfrik]

PW-36 is steel, but it has a different screw spacing than PW-29… I think. I have both here in a parts bin, so I can check later.

On my son’s Mexican strat I’ve replaced the block with a machined brass block from Axes’r’us. It bolted right up to the PW-29 plate but the hole for the arm didn’t line up, so I had to order the plate too.

That turned out to be a good move as it’s well-made, chamfered like a Callaham, has locator grooves for the outside saddle grub screws like a Gotoh, and is a fraction of the cost of any of them.

That said I wouldn’t get a brass block if he’s already worn the arm threads out on the zinc, as it’s even softer. They do steel blocks too.

ARUs trem blocks here
Trem top plate to fit

These aren’t push in, though, but I can confirm that they’re very well made.

That said, if the PW-36 block fits (I’ll try later) and you cover the cost of shipping, I have one here you could have.

 

[Wulfrik]

Axes r us brass block in my son’s Mexican standard (2012)

 

[Wulfrik]

Ok, for future reference also, I can confirm that pw-36 block DOES NOT line up with pw-29 top plate.

The strong holes are off slightly and the trem arm thread is a way off.

Obviously you can’t fit the full 36 assembly to a 6 screw bridge Mexican guitar without filling and re-drilling the screw holes to the body — so it’s not a job worth doing imo.

Pics:

 

[Wulfrik]

Here is a Gotoh 510 for comparison... the quality is WAY WAY better than the Fender items. If you were going to spend !%) Euros on a Fender steel block, spend 175 on this instead (but make sure you get the 52mm screw spacing). You won't wear the threads out on this, and it has a compeletely different screw sysytem for the arm. The tube that the arm screws into is also replaceable.

 

[ahlios]

 

[archetype]

OP you have a Mexican 2-post bridge on the CP 60s. It's dimensionally different from other 2-post assemblies. The Callaham site has all the dimensions and how they compare to other bridges. Look at that, first.

 

[Wulfrik]

OP you have a Mexican 2-post bridge on the CP 60s. It's dimensionally different from other 2-post assemblies. The Callaham site has all the dimensions and how they compare to other bridges. Look at that, first.

My bad, I thought OP meant these:
https://www.andertons.co.uk/guitar-...series-60s-strat-lacquer-in-3-colour-sunburst

 

[Fenderbaum]

Go Callaham and be done with it..

 

[paynec]

OP you have a Mexican 2-post bridge on the CP 60s. It's dimensionally different from other 2-post assemblies. The Callaham site has all the dimensions and how they compare to other bridges. Look at that, first.

according to this https://www.fuzzfaced.net/stratocaster-bridge.html at end of page, the classic player (mim) is same (52.5mm) as 2 pivot american standard and professional models

 

[Skinny Nitro]

The Classic Player Series bridge is Fender part 0072253000 which is the same as the current Player Series bridge.
When the Player Series first appeared there was an apparent shortage of the specified Ping (Taiwan) manufactured bridges and Fender fitted American Standard bridges which they had spare as the Am Std has been superceded by the American Professional. The stud spacing and string spacing are the same on both types.

The most economic option may be a Sung-Il BS184 from Northwest Guitars with steel block and pop-in arm. The string spacing is slightly larger at 54mm but not the wide vintage-style 56mm.

2 Point Stratocaster Tremolo Unit with 40mm Solid Steel Block

2-point tremolo system with stainless steel saddles and full size solid steel block. This unit has it all - Vintage 54mm string spacing, high mass stainless steel saddles and a 40mm solid steel block, ensuring excellent tuning stability, and increased sustain. This unit features a push-fit...

www.northwestguitars.co.uk

This is not a recommendation, I have no connection with the company.

 

[The Ballzz]

My sons classic player 60s has finally completely stripped the threads in the zinc tremolo block. I have used a die to clear the buildup of zinc in the threads of the whammy bar twice before, but now there are no threads left for it to screw into (he was using it without a spring for a long time which probably contributed). He takes the train to various guitar lessons and band practices about 5 times a week (x2). This means he unscrews and screws the bar about 10 times weekly.

I want to replace the block with a steel block, preferably with a push fit whammy. Can anyone tell me what the steel equivalent of fender pw-29 zinc block is? Preferably with a push in whammy bar.

thanks in advance,
Michael

I suggest you get a new PW-29 block, install the correct tension spring AND steel ball that goes between the arm and the spring. Then tell him to simply leave the arm in all the time! If he likes to use it regularly, there is really no reason to ever remove it. It might not hurt to also get a new arm, with fresh threads. The mentioned "steel ball" is not listed or mentioned by Fender, but is a cure to keep the arm from "mashing" the very cheesy spring! Any 4mm steel bearing ball will do the trick! Here's the springs, but they can be found cheaper and/or with better shipping options on amazoon, etc.

Fender Stratocaster Tremolo Arm Tension Springs 0994931000 099-4931-000 099-4931-049

Fender Stratocaster Tremolo Arm Tension Springs 0994931000 099-4931-000 099-4931-049

darrenriley.com

Alternatively, The American Professional is a drop in replacement, that has the pop-in arm. The deal is that to get the arm with it, you'll need to get the full model that includes all the extra hardware/studs that you won't need. Part number #0992004000

OR

Get a complete unit for an '08 and later American Standard that has a steel block, but still has a threaded arm. Also a drop-in.

The big problem is that trying to mix and match blocks and plates can VERY be frustrating and often costly, as there are at least several different hole patterns for the strings, as well as arm hole location!

Just Thinkin'
Gene

 

[paynec]

The Classic Player Series bridge is Fender part 0072253000 which is the same as the current Player Series bridge.
When the Player Series first appeared there was an apparent shortage of the specified Ping (Taiwan) manufactured bridges and Fender fitted American Standard bridges which they had spare as the Am Std has been superceded by the American Professional. The stud spacing and string spacing are the same on both types.

The most economic option may be a Sung-Il BS184 from Northwest Guitars with steel block and pop-in arm. The string spacing is slightly larger at 54mm but not the wide vintage-style 56mm.

2 Point Stratocaster Tremolo Unit with 40mm Solid Steel Block

2-point tremolo system with stainless steel saddles and full size solid steel block. This unit has it all - Vintage 54mm string spacing, high mass stainless steel saddles and a 40mm solid steel block, ensuring excellent tuning stability, and increased sustain. This unit features a push-fit...

www.northwestguitars.co.uk

This is not a recommendation, I have no connection with the company.

Thanks for the tip but won’t the wider spacing mean the strings aren’t centred over the pickups?

 

[paynec]

I suggest you get a new PW-29 block, install the correct tension spring AND steel ball that goes between the arm and the spring. Then tell him to simply leave the arm in all the time! If he likes to use it regularly, there is really no reason to ever remove it. It might not hurt to also get a new arm, with fresh threads. The mentioned "steel ball" is not listed or mentioned by Fender, but is a cure to keep the arm from "mashing" the very cheesy spring! Any 4mm steel bearing ball will do the trick! Here's the springs, but they can be found cheaper and/or with better shipping options on amazoon, etc.

Fender Stratocaster Tremolo Arm Tension Springs 0994931000 099-4931-000 099-4931-049

Fender Stratocaster Tremolo Arm Tension Springs 0994931000 099-4931-000 099-4931-049

darrenriley.com

Alternatively, The American Professional is a drop in replacement, that has the pop-in arm. The deal is that to get the arm with it, you'll need to get the full model that includes all the extra hardware/studs that you won't need. Part number #0992004000

OR

Get a complete unit for an '08 and later American Standard that has a steel block, but still has a threaded arm. Also a drop-in.

The big problem is that trying to mix and match blocks and plates can VERY be frustrating and often costly, as there are at least several different hole patterns for the strings, as well as arm hole location!

Just Thinkin'
Gene

He only has a soft guitar case, wouldnt leaving the arm in place for all these train journeys potentially bend/break something?